Days 23-28 Oradour-sur-Glane

Day 23
10 October 2018
Miles 1134
Location Oradour-sur-Glane, France
GPS 45.93581, 1.02492

“Down this road, on a summer day in 1944, the soldiers came.
Nobody lives here now.
They stayed only a few hours.
When they had gone, a community which had lived for a thousand years was dead.
This is Oradour-sur-Glane”

A chilling introduction to the opening episode of the groundbreaking 1970s ITV documentary series “The World at War”, narrated by Laurence Olivier.

In early June 1944 the 2nd Waffen SS Panzer Division “Das Reich” was ordered north to meet the allied invasion in Normandy. Every step of the way they were harassed and delayed by the resistance and their route was marked by savage reprisals against the civilian population. On 9 June 1944 at Tulle the SS rounded up all the men of the village, hanged 99 of them – one from each of the village’s lamp posts – and deported the remaining 149 to the Dachau concentration camp.

The following day, the SS marched into the village here at Oradour, the men were taken in groups to barns and sheds around the village and shot. The women and children were herded into the church, locked inside and the church burned down. The village was then razed to the ground.

In all the SS murdered 642 villagers at Oradour; 190 men, 247 women and 205 children. There were only a few survivors. Oradour-sur-Glane was not rebuilt after the war but preserved as a memorial to Nazi brutality.

As you would expect, visiting the village is disturbing experience. I’ve been to Auschwitz, but in some ways, I can’t fully explain why, Oradour feels even more harrowing. You expect horrors in a Nazi death camp, but it is somehow more shocking in the context of a peaceful, rural French village in the middle of nowhere.

Perhaps most poignant were the villagers’ personal items in the small museum. Class photos showing the village schoolchildren in the early war years, as well as charred watches and timepieces, time stood still at the point they and their owners were incinerated.

 

“Here inhabitants were buried”. Villagers were thrown down this well.

?

Girls’ school

Here lived Jean Binet 34 years. Andree Binet 29 years. Jean-Pierre Binet 7 years. 10 June 1944

?

?

“Here, place of torture. A group of men were massacred and burned by the Nazis. Remember”

Cafe Central

Church of Oradour sur Glane. Silence. Here hundreds of women and children were massacred by the Nazis. See who passes make a prayer for the victims and their families.

?

The church

?

?

?

?

Doctor Desourteaux’s car in the centre of the village

?

Post Office

Day 24
11 October 2018
Miles 1291
Location Creon, Nouvelle-Aquitaine, France
GPS 44.77626, -0.34838

No luck finding somewhere to stay today. The aire I had in mind was closed and undergoing building work, apparently being expanded. So I moved to another further on my route only to find it didn’t seem to exist, perhaps the GPS co-ordinates were wrong. The next one turned out to be a “France Passion” location. We’re close to Bordeaux and there are vineyards everywhere, some allow you to stay overnight but are expected to buy a few bottles of the local vino in exchange. As a rule I don’t drink while on the road so have no need for bottles of plonk rattling around the cupboards, so moved on again and finally arrived at the aire at Creon having driven much further than intended.

The aire is small, free, pleasant enough but next to a busy road. OK for an overnight stop though.

I’m NOT happy about this!

Day 25
12 October 2018
Miles 1425
Location Pissos, Nouvelle-Aquitaine, France
GPS 44.30788, -0.77597

One tired pooch

Another long-ish drive as we hit the coast again and took Eric for a long-awaited run on the beach – he loved it and will sleep soundly tonight. Then a drive through the Gascony National Park before stopping overnight at the wonderfully named village of Pissos.

Days 26-28
13-15 October 2018
Miles 1512
Location Las Bastide-Clairence, Nouvelle-Aquitaine, France
GPS 43.43259, -1.25682

We’re almost in Spain now, just 40 miles from the border and have found a nice free aire with water, a really good free WiFi connection nearby and walks around a little park in the village of Las Bastide-Clairence, an ancient Basque frontier settlement.  After the first night the weather turned cold and rainy.  I’ve heard there are storm warnings for Spain and Portugal so might as well stay here a few days and ride out the weather before heading over the border.

Days 19 – 22 A Break in Aquitaine

Day 19
06 October 2018
Miles 1045
Location Neuillay les Bois, Loire, France
GPS 46.76931, 1.47358

Heading further south I found a pleasant aire in the village of Neuillay les Bois. There is adequate parking for 4-5 motorhomes with fresh water, two free electric hookup points and toilet block with lovely walks around a park and ponds behind. I clipped and bathed Eric, he wasn’t impressed but on a warm sunny day he was dry in no time.

Days 20-22
07-09 October 2018
Miles 1093
Location Fromental, Nouvelle-Aquitaine, France
GPS 46.15970, 1.39635

 

It was rainy this morning so I decided to move on again only to find another lovely aire in another tiny village, this time Fromental. Again free to stay with fresh water available and free electricity. A decent internet connection here so with the Liverpool – Man City game in mind I decided to stay put for a couple of days, which turned into three.  I’ve done a lot of driving, moving on most days, so it will be nice to stay put for a little while.

We’re now in Aquitaine – I think. Or we might still be in Limousin. No bleedin’ idea! It seems that the French have – much like the British did in the 1970s – mucked about with their geographic departments and administrative regions; merging existing ones, creating new ones, changing boundaries and so on just to confuse everybody. Fromental is officially in the Nouvelle-Aquitaine region which was created through the merger of three old regions of Aquitaine, Limousin and Poitou-Charentes. Glad that’s clear then!

Eric keeping guard

This aire is right in the centre of the village, outside the Maire’s office. Even tiny little villages here have a mayor, Fromental amounts to little more than a post office, a church and a shop. There seems to be a great deal more local autonomy than in the UK with small communities having some say as to how their village is run, and the power to introduce measures to bring in tourists by opening a motorhome aire for example. Well I’m not complaining. The Maire obviously isn’t very busy, she walked around the aire with a basket of apples giving a handful to the occupants of each motorhome and welcoming them to the village. Thanks Maire!

4 free electric hookup points. There are five motorhomes here at the moment but somebody had a splitter adapter

Picnic bench behind the church

Service point

Graveyard in Fromental.  Complete with DIY greenhouse-shrines which give it that ramshackle allotment look.

Days 16-18 Chateau de Chenonceau

Day 16
03 October 2018
Miles 937
Location Panzoult, Loire, France
GPS 47.12838, 0.39214

Chateau de Chenonceau

This part of the world is dotted with ancient fortified cities which have been at the forefront of some of the most important events in European history. From the Frankish victory over the invading Arab armies at Tours in 732, arguably a key turning point in European civilisation, to the Black Prince’s victory at Poitiers, and the Siege of Orleans where the city held until the arrival of reinforcements under Joan of Arc. I’d love to spend a few hours walking around and taking in the sights, but cities mean traffic, crowds and having to leave the motorhome unaccompanied in dodgy urban car parks. It’s just not worth it, for peace of mind and with Eric as company you could do a lot worse than the French countryside.

I found an idyllic little wild camping spot on the banks of the river Vienne, down a dead end country lane.

Unfortunately in the woods I found a bin bag full of rubbish, over 50 glass beer bottles, plastic bottles and a discarded bike tyre. I was fuming, while donning some old gloves, bagging the lot up and stuffing it in my rear storage box.

Days 17-18
04-05 October 2018
Miles 1000
Location Montresor, Loire, France
GPS 47.15751, 1.20158

An early start and a short drive to the Chateau de Chenonceau.

At €14 entry fee it is a bit of an extravagance, and I would have been perfectly happy just to have a wander around the perimeter until I saw the signs indicating that the Chateau and grounds are pet friendly! Dogs are allowed entry to the grounds and gardens provided they are on a lead, and you can actually take them inside the Chateau as long as you carry them in your arms or in a pet carrier. Not very practical if you have a St Bernard, but an admirable pet friendly policy all the same.  Decision made and we spent a few hours wandering about the grounds, admiring the stunning 16th century Renaissance Chateau from all angles.

I picked Eric up and we ventured inside the building. I tried to take some photos of the various rooms but despite Eric only weighing about 8 kilos it’s a bit like stuffing a wriggly case of beer under one arm while trying to take photos one handed with the other.

I kept a tight hold of Eric at this point as I can just imagine him jumping up onto the pillow and getting comfy!

Neither of us was very comfortable so we headed back outside and explored the gardens, Eric getting fussed by Japanese tourists.

We drove a little further south, hitting the 1000 mile point in the trip at a quaint and sleepy (read: dead) little village named Montresor which boasts a rather large fortress suggesting that the place was once more important than it is now!

?

There is a large aire on the edge of the village where the initial tranquillity was unfortunately spoiled by the arrival of a convoy of retired Belgians in an assortment of 8-metre gin palaces, they set up camp right next to us and proceeded to be loud and animated winding Eric up in the process. I moved to the opposite corner of the aire in a huff. Perhaps I’m just grumpy after the football.

Thankfully come Friday morning they all sodded off, again in convoy on their way to terrorise some other French village, so I’m staying for another night. Catching up on laundry, clipping Eric and general cleaning chores.

Days 14-15 St Nazaire to Fontevraud Abbey

Day 14
01 October 2018
Miles 801
Location La Chapelle sur Erdre, Loire, France
GPS 47.29651, -1.54555

 

The Normandie Dock, St Nazaire.  HMS Campbeltown was rammed into the gate at the far end.  Timed explosives went off later that day destroying the gate

Eric had a final run around with Albie before we set off. The weather has started to turn, it’s been noticeably cooler over the past few days. Still warm and sunny during the day, but cold at night and I’ve even resorted to running the heating for half an hour in the morning. The Truma blown-air gas heating system is fantastic, warming such a small space up in no time.

I’ve been in two minds as to whether to abandon my plans to loop inland from here along the Loire Valley and then down through the Limousin and Dordogne regions hitting the coast again before crossing the pair o’ knees. It’s tempting to push on south in search of warmer climes, but I’ve finally decided to do both. I’ll head for the Loire and some of the sights I’ve wanted to see for years but with a plan in mind to immediately turn south if the weather deteriorates further.

A quick stop at Saint Nazaire to see the port and former German U-Boat pens, location of a daring Commando raid during the war. The dry dock at St Nazaire was the largest on the Atlantic coast and the only one where German warships such as the Tirpitz could be repaired. British forces, in a Commando raid code-named Operation Chariot, rammed an old destroyer full of explosives into the lock gate of the dry dock and destroyed many of the port facilities. The dry dock was put out of action for the remainder of the war.

U-Boat pens

 

The aire for tonight is at La Chapelle sur Erdre, just 4 bays behind a graveyard. Free services including fresh water. Very quiet and no trouble from the neighbours!

 

Day 15
02 October 2018
Miles 914
Location Fontevraud-l’Abbaye, Loire, France
GPS 47.18472, 0.04963

Fontevraud Abbey (Wikipedia image)

Further inland, passing picturesque medieval towns on the banks of the Loire we reached Fontevraud Abbey, a 12th century monastery in ancient Anjou. The Abbey is the burial place of a Norman French noble who became Richard I of England “The Lionheart”, as well as his parents, Henry II and Eleanor of Aquitaine.

The entrance fee is €11 and of course dogs aren’t allowed in.  Eric is happy enough to sit in the front of the van for an hour or so barking at passers by, but I don’t like leaving him so it was a whistle stop tour of the Abbey.  There is lots to see, but you can rush around the place and take in the most important and impressive bits in an hour.

Star exhibits of course, the tombs of Richard the Lionheart (minus his heart, which is entombed in Rouen Cathedral), Henry II, Eleanor of Aquitaine and Isabella of Angouleme.

Richard I and Isabella of Angouleme

Henry II and Eleanor of Aquitaine

After a very impressive but rushed tour I returned to the van and Eric who was happy to see me, but disappointed that I hadn’t brought him a nice juicy Plantagenet femur to gnaw on.

The night was spent at a free aire on a quiet car park 10 minutes walk from the Abbey. Free services including water.  Neighbours French, Belgian, Dutch, German and British.  More pics of the Abbey below.

?

Days 10-13 Huelgoat to Carnac

Day 10
27 September 2018
Miles 570
Location Huelgoat, Brittany, France
GPS 48.36026, -3.75684

The usual morning routine is to push the bed back into sofa configuration, take Eric out for a quick walk and his morning widdle, then retreat back to the van for a leisurely mug of coffee or two. Sadly this morning’s coffee was spat out after the first sip. It tasted of fuel. It seems that the tap at the petrol station in Carentan was contaminated with either petrol or diesel, I couldn’t tell which as I’m not in the habit of tasting either. I have filled up with fresh water at petrol station forecourts all over the continent and the taps are usually mains supply. This one must be fed from an underground storage tank that had previously been used to store fuel.

The fresh water tank’s contents were immediately dumped down the grey water drain on the aire and we headed westwards towards Brittany. I had identified an aire on the way that has a free fresh water supply so stopped there, flushed the tank again and refilled it, then continued on our way.

It was a long drive, 176 miles – I’ve been all over Brittany just a few years ago so, pretty as it is, would rather blast through the place in search of pastures new – the West coast, the Loire Valley and Dordogne.

Overnight was spent on the aire at Huelgoat in the wild and windy Finistere region.

Days 11-13
28-30 September 2018
Miles 678
Location Carnac, Brittany, France
GPS 47.58548, -3.08274

Another few hours driving and we’re now on the Atlantic coast, still just about within Brittany, at a small town named Carnac, famous for the Carnac Stones, standing stone formations erected during the neolithic period.

One of these needs widdling on

There is a nice aire in the centre of the town, sporting a fantastic internet connection from what must be a very close FON hotspot, we stopped at a lovely beach nearby on the way so decided to stay put for a couple of days, after yesterday’s drive we’re now ahead of whatever passes for a schedule.

Breton striped shirts at the Carnac market. As worn by the 19th century Breton onion sellers who traded in the south west of England and south Wales.  Onion Johnny

Again the aire is free. A leafy car park just outside of town with free toilet and grey water disposal, fresh water is available for 2 euros.

Washing the dishes I did a double take at a small grey poodle outside. Nigel and Ann from Sheffield – small world – are in the motorhome “next door” and travelling with their Bedlington-Poodle cross Albie, who even has his own Facebook page. He’s like Eric’s twin, they are similar in many ways and got on really well. I’m looking forward to following Albie’s travels on Facebook and may even bump into them again in Spain this winter.

Eric and Albie

Albie and Eric

Days 8-9 Omaha Beach to Utah Beach

Day 8
25 September 2018
Miles 336
Location Saint-Martin-De-Varreville, Normandy, France – Utah Beach
GPS 49.44077, -1.20432

From Arromanches we continued along the coast until we reached the American sector and Omaha Beach. The landings here were a disaster, rough seas swamped landing craft and blew others off course, the amphibious tanks were sunk or beached in the wrong sector. The first assault waves were decimated by strong German defences and were pinned down on the beach. Evacuation was considered but the infantry finally gained a foothold and overwhelmed the German bunkers.

Dog Red sector looking west towards Pointe du Hoc

Memorial on Dog Red sector

Our first stop was the American Military cemetery at Coleville-sur-Mer.  Dogs are of course not allowed so it was a brief visit while Eric guarded the van on the car park. There are 9000 Americans buried here from the Normandy Campaign, just behind the central point of Omaha Beach. It is a sobering, peaceful and respectful spot.

Then on to “Dog Green” sector at the village of Vierville.  The worst sector on the worst landing beach of the entire invasion.  If you’ve seen “Saving Private Ryan”, the opening scenes are set in this sector and are by all accounts a quite accurate representation of the bloodbath on Omaha.

Next on to Pointe du Hoc where 225 Rangers scaled a cliff to assault a German battery that threatened both Omaha and Utah beaches.

Finally after another busy day sightseeing and Eric knackered again, we moved on around the coast and found a fantastic spot for the night at Saint-Martin-De-Varreville overlooking Utah Beach.

 

Day 9
26 September 2018
Miles 394
Location Cerences, Normandy, France
GPS 48.91252, -1.43497

First stop was the “Leclerc Memorial” to the 2nd Armoured Division of the Free French Army who landed at Utah on 1 July.

 

We had a walk along Utah Beach and around the outdoor section of the museum.

Eric on Utah Beach

 

 

Then our Final stop on the D-Day tour, a brief visit to the village of Sainte-Mere-Eglise. Paras of the US 82nd and 101st Airborne were dropped all over the surrounding countryside, many of them miles off their intended drop-zones.  Some ended up parachuting into the village of Sainte-Mere-Eglise where they fought a savage battle with the German occupiers.  Famously one paratrooper named John Steele was caught up on the church spire and watched helpless from above for two hours before being taken prisoner.

I bought some diesel in Carentan, the first since the UK. Fuel isn’t cheap in France these days though, €1.44 a litre!

Finally a lovely little aire at Cerences. We’re Brittany bound tomorrow.

The nights are getting colder but “lord muck” Eric is alright with a pillow, sleeping bag and blanket!

By the way sorry for any typos or grammatical errors.  I’ve uploaded this one in a hurry, will check it out and make any corrections when I have better internet access.

Days 6-7 Juno Beach to Gold Beach

Day 6
23 September 2018
Miles 264
Location Courseulles-sur-Mer, Normandy, France – Juno Beach
GPS 49.33698, -0.46521

Canada House, Bernieres-sur-Mer – a landmark then as now

Due to appalling weather we decided (or rather I did, Eric is happy to comply as long as he gets walks and goodies) to spend another night at the aire behind Juno Beach.  Heavy rain all day, thankfully I had internet from a nearby FON hotspot so kept myself busy uploading the first few pages of this blog, Eric put himself on guard duty on his cushion on the passenger seat and yapped at everyone who walked past. As the weather worsened the internet connection kept dropping out, all the bits and bytes getting blown around in the wind!  Finally the weather cleared just as we were in danger of developing cabin-fever and we set out to see some of the sights and have a lovely walk on the beach.

Juno Beach Centre

Eric on Juno Beach

Cosy’s Pillbox

Cross of Lorraine – symbol of the Free French

 

Day 7
24 September 2018
Miles 284
Location Arromanches-les-Bains, Normandy, France – Gold Beach
GPS 49.33931, -0.62596

Aire at Arromanches

We woke up to a lovely sunny day after yesterday’s washout so made an early start after two days at Juno Beach.

In the village of Crepon there is a memorial to the Green Howards, where Stanley Hollis won the only V.C. of D-Day by storming not one but two German pill boxes.

Then through the village of Ver-sur-Mer we had reached “King Sector”, the easternmost sector of Gold Beach

British Sexton Self-Propelled Gun

Along the coast we drove through Asnelles

The leftmost plaque reads “The 88mm housed in this emplacement accounted for six British tanks and held up the advance from the Beach until it was destroyed at a range of 300 yds. by a 25 pounder S.P. gun of THE ESSEX YEOMANRY commanded by Sergeant R.E. Palmer M.M.”

Then on to Arromanches-les-Bains, the central point of Gold Beach.

Here you can still see the huge concrete blocks out to sea, what remains of Mulberry Harbour “B”.  The allies weren’t sure when they would be able to capture a deep-water port intact, so decided to bring two with them!  One of the most incredible engineering achievements of the war.  The Mulberry Harbour at Arromanches was the size of Dover harbour and became “Port Winston”.

There is a free aire in the town, it isn’t particularly picturesque but is in a great location a short walk from the museum. The town is very touristy with prices to match.  On the east side of town there is a steep hill, it’s a worthwhile walk to take in the view overlooking the town where there is a viewing platform. You can stay here on the car park overnight for €6 and it would be tempting for the views alone if we weren’t already parked up in town. Imagine the panorama here on the morning of 6 June 1944 with 5,000 ships on the horizon.  It would certainly test your dedication to the fuhrer.

 

Sherman of the French 2nd Armoured Division

After a few hours traipsing about Arromanches Eric is absolutely shattered so we’re going back to the van for dinner and a quiet night in. Tomorrow we’re off to the American sector, starting with the infamous Omaha Beach where the US forces managed to gain a foothold despite massive setbacks and heavy casualties.

Day 5 Pegasus Bridge to Sword Beach

Day 5
22 September 2018
Miles 264
Location Courseulles-sur-Mer, Normandy, France – Juno Beach
GPS 49.33698, -0.46521

We’ve just parked up on a rather miserable, rainy evening at another free aire, this one at Courseulles-sur-Mer.  There are no facilities but it is free and overlooking Juno beach, close to the museum.

Over the next few days we’re going to travel westwards across the Normandy coastline between Caen and the Cherbourg peninsula, along the way stopping to see the five main landing beaches – east to west these are Sword (British), Juno (Canadian), Gold (British), Omaha (American) and Utah (American) as well as seeing some of the other significant sites from the allied invasion in June 1944.

Just about the most easterly target on D-Day was the bridge over the Caen Canal at Benouville.  Units of the Ox and Bucks Light Infantry and Royal Engineers landed here by glider on the night of 5 June, capturing the bridge within minutes and holding it despite suffering heavy casualties.

Pegasus Bridge

The original bridge is preserved in a museum a short distance from its original location.  I didn’t actually visit the museum as dogs aren’t allowed in, so was happy to take these pictures over the hedge and took Eric for a walk instead.

Pegasus Bridge Museum

Horsa Glider in Museum

Replacement bridge built in 1994

The spot where Major Howard’s glider landed – 30 metres from the target, in enemy territory, in the dark!

First house in occupied Europe to be liberated (centre).  Now the Pegasus Cafe

After driving through Bénouville – the first French village to be liberated – and then on through Ouistreham we reached Lion-sur-Mer, stopping for a walk on Sword Beach, the easternmost landing beach and visiting the Commando Memorial.

Statue of Bill Millin, who piped the Commandos ashore on Sword Beach

Eric thinks Sword Beach is a lot more fun these days

Commando Memorial

Days 2-4 Berck-sur-Mer to St Romain de Colbosc

Day 2
19 September 2018
Miles 91
Location Maison de la Baie de Somme, Lancheres, Picardy, France
GPS 50.19586, 1.55072

I found a caravan spares dealer in Berck-sur-Mer and bought a new pump for 99 euros- ouch!  I took Eric on a long walk on the lovely sandy beach, the drove 42 miles to a free aire on the grounds of the Maison de la Baie de Somme – a natural history museum in Lancheres, Picardy.  There are no facilities, but it’s free and quiet other than some farm machinery trundling by.  A boulangerie van called in the morning.

Day 3
20 September 2018
Miles 154
Location Veules-les-Roses, Normandy, France
GPS 49.87479, 0.79158

On to Veules-les-Roses and we’re in Normandy already. We have been here twice before, there is a large field overlooking the town which serves as an unofficial aire, it’s very popular and busy in the summer months and at weekends. If staying here, approach from the west (from the D925 at 49.86410, 0.77104) to avoid going through the town where there are some extremely narrow streets. Pretty little town with a nice beach.

Day 4
21 September 2018
Miles 193
Location St Romain de Colbosc, Normandy, France
GPS 49.52086, 0.34730

Overnight a storm buffeted the van in the exposed spot atop the hill at Veules-les-Roses so we moved on first thing, another 39 miles to St Romain de Colbosc in Normandy. A lovely little aire, each bay comprising a concrete hard-standing separated by hedgerows. Free electric hookup to each bay, there is also free water, toilet and grey water disposal – all funded by the local authority. Apparently the locals are proud of their little aire which brings tourists into the town all year round. Imagine that in NIMBY obsessed Blighty! The only downside is that it is quite close to a busy road otherwise we’d have stayed another night. Can’t complain for free though!

Day 1 Calais to Stella-Plage

18 September 2018
Miles 49
Location Stella-Plage, Cucq, Pas-de-Calais, France
GPS 50.47318, 1.57707

After three months preparation we’re off! 280 miles down to Folkestone, I prefer the Channel Tunnel to the ferry as Eric doesn’t have to be left on his own.  Also I like the flexibility, if you turn up a few hours either side of your scheduled departure they allocate you a spot on the next crossing, provided there is space.  I like to be well clear of Calais before stopping for the first night.  49 miles along the coast to Stella Plage, allocated motorhome parking spots on a quiet little access road by the beach. It’s totally free, and absolutely full even in mid September, we bagged the last free space. I suspect you would need to be there early to get a space over the summer months.  Bins are provided, there is a vending type machine just up the road where you can pay for water and electricity if needed.

First day, first problem – a leaky water pump! The pump takes water from the under-slung fresh water tank and distributes it on demand to the kitchen sink, bathroom sink and shower. It’s leaking from the diaphragm and will need to be replaced. Why does something always have to fail on the first day?