Day 151
15 February 2019
Miles 4840
Location La Linea de la Concepcion, Spain
GPS 36.15608, -5.35757
The Alhambra, Granada (not my picture, stock Wikipedia image)
From Tarifa it was a short drive to our next stop at Gibraltar. There is allocated motorhome parking at the marina at La Linea de la Concepcion, which costs €12 for 24 hours. Although still in Spain here, it’s a ten minute walk to the border and there are fantastic views of the Gibraltar from the marina, especially of the rock which is lit up at night.
I drove across the border to take advantage of the cheap fuel, filling up with diesel at Morrisons for 91 pence per litre! It feels odd to be spending pounds again. Gibraltar is a fascinating place. The locals look Spanish, drive on the right, just like the Spanish they’re woeful drivers, but they spend pounds, speak English, shop at Morrisons, eat bacon butties and drink tea and are fiercely defensive of their British culture.
The weather is also very British at the moment; miserable, overcast, looking like the heavens are about to open.
Oddly enough as both Gibraltar and Spain are EU members, for the moment at least, passport control measures are in force both on entry and exit.
Eric didn’t like Gibraltar. On the second day we walked across the border straight into the town, land is obviously at a premium on a small island and it’s so built up with heavy, noisy traffic everywhere. He was pulling on the lead to let me know he wanted out.
Days 152-153
16-17 February 2019
Miles 4871
Location Casares, Spain
GPS 36.44622, -5.27839
We retreated inland to the tranquillity of a free aire on the car park of the tourist information office, just outside the hilltop village of Casares. There are services here consisting of fresh water and a toilet disposal point, all free. Neighbours three British, two German, one Dutch, one French and for the first time, a camper van with Polish plates.
Day 154
18 February 2019
Miles 4918
Location Juzcar, Spain
GPS 36.62254, -5.16880
Ronda
Our next stop was the hilltop town of Ronda, a Moorish old town and Spanish new town divided by a deep gorge known as “El Tajo”, spanned by a single bridge. In the Sierra de las Nieves National Park, Ronda was an inspiration for former residents Ernest Hemingway and Orson Welles.
I’m not keen on heights and looking nervously down from the bridge into the Ronda valley below I expected to see Welsh miners emerging from a pit singing “Men of Harlech”.
The place is heaving with tourists even in February.
The on to the blue painted “Smurf village” of Juzcar. In 2011 the traditionally whitewashed Andalusian village was painted smurf blue to advertise the upcoming release of the Smurfs film. Every building here was painted blue from hotels, the school, the church and farmacia.
The unique character and charm of Juzcar, the world’s only “Smurf village” saw it become a tourist hotspot with a ten fold increase in visitor numbers, so despite a legal challenge from the owners of the Smurfs brand, the villagers decided to keep the colour scheme. Juzcar is thriving with new businesses, bars and two small hotels opening thanks to the influx of tourism.
We spent the night on a free parking area just outside the village. A sunny, crisp day up in the mountains we enjoyed a wander around the village. A lovely, pleasant little place, it makes you smile.
Days 155-156
19-20 February 2019
Miles 5054
Location Granada, Spain
GPS 37.19729, -3.61230
Alhambra at night. Again, not my image
Due back home in a month I decided it was time to put some miles behind us, driving 136 miles today to the city of Granada.
On the way I was pulled over by the Civil Guard. He wasn’t very civil, had a surly expression on his face and looked like he was having a bad day and was most likely in the mood to hand out fines. I had been warned by a family member (thanks Bill!) that the police here are very strict on dogs being properly restrained while travelling in a vehicle. The Civil Guard told me off, wagged his finger and let me go on my way, Eric now wearing his harness and secured by his lead to the headrest.
I have always wanted to see the world heritage site of the Alhambra palace at Granada but there are no aires anywhere near the city. You can stay overnight at designated motorhome parking on the car park of the Alhambra itself but they charge over €30 per night! So we’re really splashing out and for the first time in five months staying at a campsite. I booked in for two nights at the Camping Hotel Sierra Nevada. More a motel with camping around the back but pleasant enough and a reasonable price at €19 per night. €38 for 2 nights is more than my total spend on accommodation for the entire past five months.
It’s a two mile walk to the Alhambra, I set off with Eric and got about a third of the way but I think it would have been too much for him, it’s still quite hot here during the day.
So instead I drove the two miles, paid for a couple of hours parking and had a wander around the perimeter. Dogs aren’t allowed inside the Alhambra, not even in the gardens, and there’s no way I’m leaving Eric alone in the van for the 3-4 hours it would take to get my money’s worth from the entrance fee. I’m satisfied just to walk around the place and admire it from the outside.
Originally a Moorish fortress (hence the name) the palace complex was extended after the reconquista, it’s an incredible fusion of Islamic and Christian architecture.
Day 157
21 February 2019
Miles 5150
Location Los Banos de Guardias Viejas, Spain
GPS 36.69863, -2.84256
From Granada I enjoyed the stunning scenery as we circled the Sierra Nevada mountains on our return to the coast. After the shock of paying for a campsite, tonight normal service resumed, we’re at a nice free overnight spot next to the beach at Los Banos de Guardias Viejas which translates as “The Baths of the Old Guards”, an ancient garrison town.
Woolly Ramblers 