Days 130-142 Final Days on the Algarve

Days 130-134
25-29 January 2019
Miles 4212
Location Quarteira, Portugal
GPS 37.06068, -8.08638

“What have you done to me?” A coiffured Eric – street cred shattered.

Now in need of shopping and services I visited visited the Lidl in Albufeira with the intention of driving back to Falesia and staying on one of the motorhome aires in the resort.  Algarve Motorhome Park charge €6 per night or €9.50 with electricity. I don’t need electricity thanks to having masses of solar, but for one night with services and washing machines (at an extra charge of course) €6 is a decent price. On arrival I was told that it was full up! I was able to pay €3 to use their services so emptied the toilet cassette, grey water tank and filled the fresh water tank and made my way back to my favourite spot at Quarteira.

Jurgen Klopp and his family are still here as is a diminutive Frenchman who I’ve nicknamed Napoleon, after a famous French shortarse. He’s a pleasant fella, always a smile and a bonjour. We attempt a conversation from time to time, him in broken English and me in mangled French. He hasn’t moved since my first visit in early December. About once a week he leaves his chairs and wheel chocks to reserve “his spot” and drives to the aire nearby, €2 for services, a quick shop in the Lidl and he’s back an hour later.

On 30 January I took Eric to the Tibi store at Quarteira. Tibi is a Portuguese pet food chain with groomers and vets on the premises. I try my best to clip his fur myself, but I’m not very good at it. There are various nooks and crannies around his person that I can’t get to, in particular his chest and armpits, well leg-pits! The groomer Anna was lovely and gentle with him but Eric being his usual timid self hated the experience. She worked on him for an hour and a half. It isn’t exactly how I wanted it. The language barrier made communication difficult and he looks a bit too coiffured for my liking but a good roll in the sand will sort that out. To be fair she did a great job for a great price. Fur clipped, nails cut, a wash and blow dry for €25.

He smells lovely too, not his usual faintly pissy aroma!

This dog does not approve

I then spent the next week or so revisiting places I’d been before, so the following is just a brief account for the record

Day 135
30 January 2019
Miles 4237
Location Falesia, Portugal
GPS 37.08060, -8.14187

One more night at Falesia and I met up again with a lovely retired couple, John and Anna with their lovely black west highland terrier named Eddie. Eddie has a lovely nature, really easygoing and Eric got on really well with her (yes Eddie is a she!) They played chase games (Eric and Eddie, not the pensioners!) and John and Anna showed me their Hymer B584. Only 6 metres long but seems massive due to the extra width, I’m envious of all the space.

Days 136-137
31 January – 01 February 2019
Miles 4284
Location Alferce, Portugal
GPS 37.33467, -8.48913

Back to Alferce to do some washing. There is an Intermarche supermarket nearby at Monchique with self-service washing machines outside. I met Martin again in his pristine Hobby van, he gave me some more tips for great places to stay on my route further east. He keeps calling Eric “Derek” but Derek doesn’t mind.

Days 138-139
02-03 February 2019
Miles 4358
Location Ameixial, Portugal
GPS 37.36540, -7.97145

Back to Ameixial, the place with the free electric hookups. The freeloading Belgians in their massive Concorde towing the 4×4 are still here. I get itchy feet after 4-5 days in one spot, I’d get cabin fever staying in one place for months on end and I wouldn’t be comfortable taking advantage of the local taxpayers like that.

Day 140
04 February 2019
Miles 4440
Location Estoi, Portugal
GPS 37.09355, -7.89729

One night stopover at Estoi. This is little more than a gritty, pot-holed car park on a sports field, but is free and there is water and disposal available.  There are Roman ruins here which I’d have liked to have visited but am keen to move into Spain now, maybe next time.

Days 141-142
05-06 February 2019
Miles 4473
Location Castro Marim, Portugal
GPS 37.22035, -7.44460

My final stop in Portugal, a free aire alongside the road just outside the historic town of Castro Marim. Again water and disposal are available. For fresh water you have to buy a token from the local tourist information but they only charge 50 cents.

Castro Marim is fascinating, there are two forts here on on hills either side of the town, unfortunately closed at this time of year. I wonder whether they were ever occupied by opposing forces, and imagined an amusing pythonesque scenario with each side trading insults with their enemies across the battlements.

You can see Spain here only three miles away across the Guadiana River, at 500 miles long it defines much of the Spanish-Portuguese border.

After spending the past 3 months in Portugal, much of it on the Algarve enjoying the beautiful weather and walking Eric on sandy beaches every day, it has been wonderful.  I’m now looking forward to spending more time exploring interesting places on our route up the Spanish coast. Cadiz beckons, along with Gibraltar and Granada.

Days 116-129 The Meandering Return Leg

Days 116-118
11-13 January 2019
Miles 3981
Location Carrapateira, Portugal
GPS 37.19263, -8.90228

Carrot-potato

The past few weeks have seen us revisiting some of my favourite spots and walking Eric on his favourite beaches, as we begin, ever so slowly, to head back to the UK. Back on the west coast, from the tranquillity of Carrapateira (which I have nicknamed carrot-potato) I intend to slowly make my way eastwards towards Spain, crossing the border early February. I want to see Cadiz and Gibraltar, before making my way up the Mediterranean coast. Then I’ll cut inland somewhere around Valencia and return home by ferry from Santander. The Santander ferry is quite expensive but saves driving 1,000 additional miles all the way to Calais, which amounts to two whole tanks of diesel!

The ferry is booked for 21 March, just over a week before the planned Brexit date. I want to ensure that I’m back in the UK just in case of travel, driving licence or pet passport complications in the case of a hard Brexit on 29th. I’ve been following developments with interest, and now a hard Brexit seems extremely unlikely I have decided to spend some time with family in April and then head out again, perhaps to Scandinavia or Italy. I have no definite plans yet but have started marking out places of interest on a google maps page.

Days 119-120
14-15 January 2019
Miles 4038
Location Sagres, Portugal
GPS 37.00484, -8.94627

Next stop, back to the fort at Sagres, spending a couple of nights at “the end of the world” and it felt like it too, overcast weather and for the first time in months – rain! It’s just not cricket. I intend to lodge a strongly worded complaint with the Portuguese tourism authority.

Days 121-122
16-17 January 2019
Miles 4098
Location Alferce, Portugal
GPS 37.33467, -8.48913

The grey beards club. Steve, Janet, Shaun, Eric, Marie, Neil

Normal service now resumed, warm days and not a cloud in the sky we find ourselves back for the third time at the lovely little village aire at Alferce. Here I met up again with fellow travellers who had been here before Christmas. Neil and Janet from Liverpool and Steve and Marie from Nottingham. We went for a pizza to celebrate Steve’s 67th birthday.

Days 123-124
18-19 January 2019
Miles 4130
Location Ferragudo, Portugal
GPS 37.12777, -8.52515

The lovely fishing village of Ferragudo sits at the mouth of Arade River, on the opposite side of the river you can see the town of Portimao. There is a huge parking area just outside the village and motorhomes are tolerated here in the low season, they’re glad of the tourist money over winter and no doubt the local bars and shops do well out of the arrangement. A wonderful spot, I find that the best places are usually those passed on by word of mouth rather than found on a database.

“Luxury Villa”, who are they kidding!

Days 125-126
20-21 January 2019
Miles 4151
Location Armacao de Pera, Portugal
GPS 37.09649, -8.33648

Back to Armacao de Pera, not the pay aire this time but another spot that had been recommended to me, a beach car park just behind the dunes. Lovely and quiet here.

Days 127-129
22-24 January 2019
Miles 4167
Location Falesia, Portugal
GPS 37.08060, -8.14187

Again another recommended spot.  Thanks to Steve from Rochdale for this one at Falesia.  He even drew me a map, although I made it here despite the map rather than because of it. With a sense of direction like that I’d be surprised if he ever sees Rochdale again!

I’m always intrigued at the mix of nationalities at these places. Looking at the country codes on the various travelling contraptions, there are the usual F, D, NL, GB, some B, one or two S, but a camper van nearby sports a country code I’ve never seen before, M. It carried the blue EU logo so it can’t have been Moldova, Montenegro or Macedonia.  Or even Mexico.  As I wandered by, the occupants emerged and started fussing Eric. It turns out they are from Malta and have been on the road for 6 months, taking the ferry from Malta to Sicily, driving the length of Italy and the Mediterranean coast across France and Spain, all the way to Portugal. Of course hailing from a hot country they’re all wrapped up, fleeces, long trousers the lot.   It’s sweltering, yet they think THIS is cold? You can spot the hardy folk from northern climes, the British, Germans and Scandinavians enjoying the sunshine in t-shirt and shorts, while the Portuguese and now the Maltese look like they’re on an Arctic expedition!

Days 104-115 The Obrigada Faux Pas

Days 104-106
30 December 2018 – 01 January 2019
Miles 3820
Location Ameixial, Portugal
GPS 37.36540, -7.97145

Viewing platform at Foia. A bit of a hazy day but you can see all the way to the coast here

Next a short hop, a grand total of a quarter of a mile to the other aire at Ameixial. Both aires in this village are free and offer water, disposal AND free electricity, however this one is in a nice quiet spot on a small hill outside the village, with a lovely circular walk to the village and back.

Neighbours for the new year were the occupants of three French motorhomes, two British, one Dutch, a German and a Belgian. Mostly retired, there was no shenanigans at midnight, they all seem to be tucked up in bed by 9pm and the place was deathly-peaceful.

A few have settled in for long periods here. There is a Huge Belgian “Concorde” A-class towing a trailer carrying a 4×4. The motorhome looks like it is set up for the winter and they do all their comings and goings in the car. I’m not sure that I’m comfortable with this approach. Aires are intended to provide a short stopover for a day or two. Taking advantage of the villagers’ generosity by essentially living there for several months seems to be freeloading rather than travelling. A lot of French aires have signs stating that stays are limited to a maximum of 48 or 72 hours, precisely because some people take liberties.

Also I think it’s important to give something back rather than driving 20 miles to the nearest Lidl once a week. I try to buy bread from the local shop. The quaint little village at Alferce seems to be populated predominantly by old people, the youngsters having all moved away to the cities. They obviously saw opening an aire as a way to breathe some life into the community, providing the little shop and pizza restaurant with regular passing trade.

I got chatting to a Londoner named Martin who has been travelling in his German-built Hobby motorhome since he bought it from new 9 years ago. They’re known for fantastic build quality (Hobbys, not Londoners!) and this one looks like it’s made from recycled Tiger tank. It’s obviously his pride and joy, even the wheels look immaculate, I think he polishes them daily with baby wipes! Anyway he has been coming to Portugal for years and showed me a few of his favourite spots on the map, GPS co-ordinates now saved to my sat nav.

Days 107-111
02-06 January 2019
Miles 3856
Location Quarteira, Portugal
GPS 37.06068, -8.08638

Back for the third time to my favourite spot at Quarteira. With an important football match in mind, there is a strong 4G signal here so I should be able to stream it over the internet. I have a MiFi unit with a Portuguese MEO SIM card offering 40GB data over 30 days for a €20 top-up, or 30GB data over 15 days for £15. I was amused to find that though the service is excellent, you cannot top up online and have to visit either a post office or MEO store to buy credit! Oh and they don’t take debit cards – cash only!

I’m parked on the cliff behind the beach again, behind a youngish German couple, hippy types with two kids. He looks like a young Jurgen Klopp.  She sits cross legged on the cliff doing yoga every morning.  Eric isn’t happy with such erratic behaviour and gives her a warning yap.  Behind us a couple from Sweden who are putting their camper into storage tomorrow and flying back to sub-zero Stockholm.

I felt a bit of a fool after finally getting around to looking up the correct usage of the word for “thank you” in Portuguese. When paying for shopping or diesel for example, sometimes the checkout person will say obrigado, sometimes obrigada. Initially I thought this was just due to regional accent variations and had been switching between the two depending upon how the other person thanked me. However I have now discovered that males say obgrigado, females say obrigada. Which explains some of the funny looks I’ve been getting in Lidl!

Daily walk along the promenade at Quarteira

Well thought out car parking in Quarteira

Days 112-114
07-09 January 2019
Miles 3882
Location Armacao de Pera, Portugal
GPS 37.10038, -8.35436

Eric’s nails need clipping. I trim his fur as best I can, give him flea treatment, worming tablet and so on. But with the nails, I am afraid of cutting them too short, causing bleeding and hurting him so when they get a bit long, I have been finding a local groomer. The “Tibi” chain in Portugal is a pet supplies shop with on-site vet and groomers and I can recommend the one just north of Quarteira. The groomer was really friendly and spoke English. Poor Eric being so timid hated the experience and was shaking with fear, but she was really gentle and had the job over and done with in no time, total cost €5.

One thing I’ve been advised to be wary of is the danger posed by what I refer to as “professional” caterpillars.

http://www.mythankyoupage.com/pets-and-animals/dogs-and-killer-processionary-caterpillars-in-portugal/

Their poison can be very dangerous to dogs and small children so if you visit Portugal, be vigilant around pine woodland.

Next stop, three nights at an aire that Martin recommended to me. The aire itself isn’t very picturesque but it’s in a fantastic location on the edge of the resort of Armacao de Pera and just behind a lovely sandy beach. It also isn’t free, but is cheap enough at €4 per night and has free water and disposal. As a rule I don’t stay on pay sites, and haven’t done so in months, but wanted to check it out as it was so enthusiastically recommended.

This plastic model on top of the roof of an ice-cream parlour wasn’t particularly appetising, but for some reason reminded me that I need to buy some more poo bags for Eric!

Day 115
10 January 2019
Miles 3915
Location Foia, Portugal
GPS 37.31650, -8.59226

Right up in the mountains atop Mount Foia, which sounds like a command given by an Irish firing squad leader, there are several allocated motorhome parking spots with stunning views. The complex comprises several large car parks, surrounded by communications masts, a radar station, a few tourist shops, cafe, chapel and a viewing platform with extensive views over the Algarve. It’s bitterly cold at night up here in the mountains though!

We continue to crisscross the southern Algarve and the route map is beginning to look like a spider’s web. I have decided to go west again all the way to Sagres and then crawl back eastwards over the following month before heading into Spain early to mid February. I want to see Cadiz, Gibraltar and head up the Med coast before returning home via Santander at the end of March.

Brexit looming, I’m watching with interest as the outcome will dictate my travel plans. A hard Brexit would most likely mean that from March, EU travel will be limited to 90 days per trip and there could be some initial complications with pet travel. A deal of some kind, (current one, or an extension/renegotiation) would mean unlimited travel would still be possible during the transition period, but 90 day limits kick in at the end of the transition period, so I might as well make the most of it while I still can. If we end up not leaving at all that means I can travel freely in the future so I might consider returning to the UK for a while.

A comprehensive article from the Our Tour blog:

https://ourtour.co.uk/home/the-death-of-the-year-long-motorhome-tour-of-europe/

 

Days 92-103 Christmas at Quarteira

Day 92
18 December 2018
Miles 3619
Location Albufeira, Portugal
GPS 37.07561, -8.27841

Beachside spot at Quarteira for Christmas

I had to drag myself away from the lovely spot at Quarteira but had an appointment at Camperserv, a British-run service/repair centre. The fridge hasn’t worked properly in months, I’d had ongoing problems and despite cleaning the jet/burner unit, replacing the thermocouple and gas valve it would still not stay lit when running on gas.

Firstly I stopped at the aire at Quarteira where you can empty the toilet cassette and fill the water tank for €2.

Then on to Camperserv where the owner removed the fridge, did some testing and replaced the selector switch. This allows you to switch power source between 12v, mains or gas. Bingo! The fridge works perfectly. Two hours labour, plus the selector switch and a part for the toilet, grand total €78. I’m really happy about that.

I have been planning to find somewhere nice near a beach to settle down for a week over Christmas and have now decided on the location, a return to the beautiful spot at Quarteira. Over the next few days I plan to fill up with LPG, stock the cupboards and now the fridge is working reliably, fill the fridge and freezer compartment with Christmas goodies.

Back along the coast I stayed the night at a quiet parking area above the beach just west of Albufeira. Amazing views here.

Day 93
19 December 2018
Miles 3670
Location Portimao, Portugal
GPS 37.12079, -8.58212

Now that the fridge is working, it’s time to fill it up.

I noticed that Albufeira is heaving with Brits, some expats and some here for the winter. They are well catered for even to the extent that the local Lidl has announcements in Portuguese and then English!

While chatting to the bloke at Camperserv and lamenting my poor planning having run out of gravy granules he told me about a British supermarket in Albufeira. The Overseas Supermarkets group in partnership with Iceland Frozen Foods in the UK specialise in imported British foodstuff, from frozen pork pies to such British staples as jars of Patak’s curry sauce and, erm, paella.

The prices were reasonable, I thought it would be expensive but was pleasantly surprised. I was going to buy a half leg of lamb for €10 but settled on two boil in the bag type lamb shanks for €11. Eric spotted them and thinks we’re having one each!

Gravy supply replenished, along with other goodies such as frozen sprouts and frozen stuffing balls, that’s our Christmas sorted!

The Iceland haul

The tiny freezer compartment is jam packed, you wouldn’t get a wafer-thin mint in there now.

Further west along coast I found some really cheap diesel (€1.229) at Lagoa. I didn’t need diesel but had to fill up at that price. They had LPG too but I was told that it was for vehicle propulsion only, and not for bottle refilling. This is due to a combination of fuel tax complications and concerns about safety of refilling gas bottles. Mine are perfectly safe and designed to be refilled at the pump, they incorporate a valve which prevents overfilling. However it’s understandable if they have had problems with people attempting to refill standard gas bottles which can be incredibly dangerous. It’s the first time I’ve been refused on this trip. Oh well, next stop a Repsol station in Portimao where they had no such qualms.

Overnight was spent at a beachfront parking area at Portimao, no services but free Wi-Fi from the local cafe. The parking area was quite busy with locals coming and going. However the long, sandy beach here is wonderful and Eric had a long walk, and as always a good roll about in the sand which he loves.

 

Days 94-95
20-21 December 2018
Miles 3694
Location Alferce, Portugal
GPS 37.33467, -8.48913

Alferce

Inland and for the first time, I’m returning to a place I’ve stayed before. Back to the pleasant aire at Alferce, the one with the non-stop Christmas music blaring from tinny speakers! However the village is quaint, the aire is free and has free water so I’ll do some washing before Christmas.

Next door neighbours were a very friendly couple from Liverpool on a year-long trip in their VW T5 camper.

 
Days 96-101
22-27 December 2018
Miles 3740
Location Quarteira, Portugal
GPS 37.06068, -8.08638

Something wants yapping at. Christmas Day on the beach

On the morning of the 22nd I emptied the toilet cassette, filled the water tank and headed for my Christmas spot at Quarteira, via the Lidl. Now with full gas bottles, fridge and freezer fit to burst I’m good to settle for a week. I’m carrying about 140 litres of water. The main fresh water tank under the chassis holds 70 litres, I have a 20 litre jerry can behind the driver’s seat and a number of 6 litre water bottles in the passenger footwell.

Back at Quarteira I was relieved to find a free spot along the cliff. Most of the British have gone and my end of the parking area is now owned by the French, they’re all very pleasant and don’t mind having a rosbif in their midst!

I’m nestled in between a Swedish camper owned by Leif accompanied by his little Schnauzer who Eric got along with and a French couple behind me in a Ducato that hasn’t moved since I was here last time.

I’m not at all smug to announce that the weather over the Christmas period was wonderful. Sunny and warm every day, the solar panels have my batteries fully recharged by 10am. It was actually a bit too warm to have the oven on in the camper, so I cooked Christmas dinner quite late, after an extra long walk up the beach and along the promenade. Quarteira is a really pleasant place, my second visit won’t be my last.

I’m not usually one of those people who post pictures of their dinner on social media, but I was quite pleased with myself. There’s even some green stuff!

Days 102-103
28-29 December 2018
Miles 3777
Location Ameixial, Portugal
GPS 37.36490, -7.95918

Now in need of services I headed inland to an aire at Ameixial, there are actually two aires in this town, both free and with water, toilet emptying AND free electric hookup! I’m parked in between a group of French and Dutch Youtubers. I intend to stay a few days and do some washing before heading back to the coast.

Merry Christmas and a happy New Year to everyone wherever you are.

Days 83-91 The End of the World

Days 83-84
09-10 December 2018
Miles 3449
Location Sagres, Portugal
GPS 37.00484, -8.94627

The end of the world. Cape St Vincent Lighthouse, taken from Sagres Point

We’re at what used to be known as “the end of the world”, on the very edge of civilisation. Beyond here be dragons! The south westerly point of Europe on the headland of Cape St Vincent is rugged and exposed, featuring a lighthouse and a few market stalls selling tourist tat, t-shirts, mugs and so on.

There have been several important naval engagements here over the years. In 1797 Nelson took on and defeated a larger and better armed Spanish fleet, including the then biggest ship in the world, the 130 gun Santisima Trinidad which escaped to fight another day and was captured and wrecked at Trafalgar eight years later.

I drove a few miles further around the coast to Sagres Point to see a 16th century fortress, built to defend the coast from pirates.

There is a huge car park in between the fort and the town where visitors from all over northern Europe have now converged for the winter. The usual German, French, Dutch and British motorhomes but I also saw a few Swedish and Norwegians, for whom the winter climate here is considerably better than back home!

Day 85
11 December 2018
Miles 3511
Location Barragem do Arade, Silves, Portugal
GPS 37.23813, -8.37768

We stayed for one night at a cracking spot near to the historic walled settlement of Silves. Some campers appear to have settled in for a few weeks, one huge Dutch motorhome even had a Christmas tree outside, decorated with a string of 12 volt lights. I’m sizing up potential spots for Christmas but would prefer somewhere on the coast.

Now in the southern Algarve, we’re nestled into the Gulf Stream and with as pleasant a climate as you’re going to get on mainland Europe at this time of year. I have reached the point where I want to spend a few months riding out the “worst” that a Portuguese winter can throw at us. Therefore I’m beginning to slow down, spending longer in each place. This will probably result in less frequent blog posts, as I’ll be doing less charging about exploring and more relaxing and walking Eric on the beach every day. I haven’t filled up with fuel for almost three weeks now and my budget is looking healthy, without really trying very hard I’m spending next to nothing.

Come January or perhaps February we might travel east, cross the border back into Spain and perhaps have a look at Gibraltar, then maybe back across the Algarve and revisit some of the nicer places. But for the time being we’re tootling around the Algarve, finding the best spots.
Days 86-87
12-13 December 2018
Miles 3536
Location Alferce, Portugal
GPS 37.33467, -8.48913

Next I found a lovely free aire with water, toilet emptying point AND free Wi-Fi in the quaint little village of Alferce. I was about to describe it as a quiet village, however the festive-minded authorities here have put up very tinny-sounding tannoys around the village, including one at the aire, which play endless Christmas songs in a loop. That won’t get at all annoying will it? It’s like psychological warfare. Humbug! Sod off Rudolf, I’m dreaming of a quiet Christmas. There are also several amusing nativity displays around the village but Eric wasn’t sure what to make of the stuffed animal figures and gave them a warning yap as we walked by.

Alferce

“What is that odd looking woolly thing”, said the sheep

A bum sniff, things are no clearer

Christmas dinner!

Alferce

Days 88-91
14-17 December 2018
Miles 3596
Location Quarteira, Portugal
GPS 37.06068, -8.08638

At Quarteira now in a stunning spot, possibly the best yet. Parking along a dirt road on a cliff above a fantastic sandy beach, a short walk from the old town.

There are no facilities here but there’s an aire a few miles away where you can pay 2 Euros for services and water. There’s a Lidl nearby too, the weather has been beautiful for weeks now, what more could you ask for? This place is definitely a contender for a relaxing Christmas, if I can get a spot that is. It’s very popular, I’m tucked in along the cliff, parked in between a retired Mancunian paramedic and an 82 year old fella from Leeds who has been travelling south for the winter by camper for 20 years. I’m off to the local Irish bar with them later to watch the football and hope to see a paramedic cry.

Quarteira

Quarteira

Quarteira

Quarteira

Days 73-82 Back to the Beach

Days 73-74
29-30 November 2018
Miles 3147
Location Ermidas-Sado, Portugal
GPS 38.03599, -8.42905

Vila Nova de Milfontes

Eric hasn’t had a run on the beach for almost three weeks now so intending to put that right we drove back to the coast, south of Lisbon. The intention was always to loop back and travel down the western Algarve, the coastal region dotted with national parks offering enticing camping opportunities.

We spent a couple of nights en route at a nice, quiet village aire, at Ermidas-Sado, parked next to a lovely little British registered VW camper.

Day 75
01 December 2018
Miles 3182
Location Santo Andre, Portugal
GPS 38.11398, -8.79601

I love the beach!

We reached the coast and Eric enjoyed a frenzied run on the beach and a roll in the sand, how I’ve missed having sand in the bed. The beach car park here is a fantastic and very popular spot, not an official aire but overnight parking is tolerated. The local police patrol here to keep an eye on the place, in cars marked with the logo and letters GNR for Guarda Nacional Republicana. At first I thought Guns and Roses were paying us a visit!

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There is a tap near the entrance and free Wi-Fi from the cafe. Beautiful weather now and a knackered pooch thanks to a long walk. What more could you ask for?

 

Days 76-77
02-03 December 2018
Miles 3227
Location Vila Nova de Milfontes, Portugal
GPS 37.78261, -8.80046

Further down the coast and along a long and potholed access road, we found a stunning beach, popular with surfers. Motorhomes are officially allowed to use the car park here, there are toilets and showers though they’re closed out of season.

I’m running short on gas now. My two small refillable 6KG Gas-It bottles contain around three weeks supply of gas. The first bottle is empty so I need to fill up soon. Unfortunately checking MyLPG.eu it seems that there are no LPG pumps along my southern coastal route. I’ve just driven past the closest one, 19KM north at Sines – birthplace of Vasco da Gama.  I rely on the gas for cooking, heating, running the fridge and the water heater so there’s no alternative but to drive to Sines and fill up. One lengthy detour later and the gas bottles are full again.

I clipped Eric again, unfortunately he now has a baldy patch on his back where I forgot to use the attachment and clipped him extra short. I don’t think he cares much. While clipping him I was concerned about white particles in his fur, I thought he had a skin condition but then realised it was sand! Mucky pup!

He’s due a bath anyway, but that’s enough torture for the day.

 

Days 78-79
04-05 December 2018
Miles 3314
Location Odeceixe, Portugal
GPS 37.43887, -8.79429

An idyllic location along a riverbank between the river and the sea, just opposite the scenic village of Odeceixe. Parking here is tolerated off season. There is a nice walk along a stretch of beach where Eric decided to roll about on the carcass of a dead bird. He thinks rolling in nasty things makes him smell fierce. He hasn’t made the connection yet that it means he’s getting a BATH! One clean dog later and the water tank empty, I had to make another detour to the Intermarche supermarket at Odemira where there is a motorhome service point on the car park.

Day 80
06 December 2018
Miles 3372
Location Monte Clerigo, Portugal
GPS 37.33695, -8.85700

Another unofficial spot, clifftop parking at Monte Clerigo and another walk on the beach where Eric collected some more sand to deposit in my bed!

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Days 81-82
07-08 December 2018
Miles 3406
Location Carapateira, Portugal
GPS 37.19263, -8.90228

Just checking that I have more solar than anybody else!

We’re now at another lovely spot, a free parking area adjacent to a lagoon and lovely sandy beach at Carapateira.  The area is popular with kite surfers. We’re getting close to the south west tip of Portugal now, just 30KM to Cape St Vincent. I have 4 or 5 stops planned ahead which should see me through to a week before Christmas. I’m determined that Eric will have a long walk on the beach every day in the run up to Christmas, even if that means sand in my bed!

Days 65- 72 Badajoz

Days 65-67
21-23 November 2018
Miles 2860
Location Badajoz, Spain
GPS 38.88490, -6.97842

Badajoz

In 1812 the French army occupying Spain held two great fortresses along the border; the great citadel of Ciudad Rodrigo in the north, and here at Badajoz, the town initially conquered and fortified by the Moors. Ciudad Rodrigo was taken at great cost, artillery making a breach in the walls and infantry launching a frontal attack through the breach. With the town in British hands, nobody had thought to bring along a flag so a red tunic was hoisted up the flagpole.

At Badajoz the British stormed the breach and were beaten back repeatedly, finally taking the fortress. The redcoats having suffered enormous casualties began to take their revenge, sacking the town. A young officer named Harry Smith protected two young Spanish girls, one of whom he would later marry. In later life Harry Smith was governor of Cape Colony and the town of Ladysmith was named after his wife, which rolls off the tongue somewhat easier than “Juana María de los Dolores de León Smith“-town

I’m here at the aire at Badajoz, with Frenchies parked on either side of me. Surrounded, but then reinforcements began to arrive in the form of a retired couple I’d first met at an aire in the Basque country on their way to a month in the Algarve, now on their way home. The couple from Sunderland followed, I think they’re stalking us!

The aire is in a fantastic spot with a wonderful view of the walled town over the Guadiana River and I spent three nights here, walking the legs off poor Eric every day.

I also visited the Media Markt store outside of town to buy a replacement SD card for my Android rear view mirror/dash cam unit. Unfortunately traffic was horrendous and the shops were heaving. I only then realised that the abomination that is “Black Friday” is observed here as well.

While back in Spain I filled up with cheap diesel and took the opportunity to do some mpg calculations, I’m getting just short of 30 mpg which I’m very pleased with. It’s been an expensive week thanks to being back in Spain and stocking up on LPG, diesel and most importantly, Eric’s favourite cheesy sausages.

 

Footbridge across the river

I chucked watching this couple using exercise bikes in the park. Furiously peddling away from each other like they couldn’t wait to be apart!

Badajoz’s answer to Eric and Ernie

Badajoz

Walls breached in 1812, they’re just getting around to repairing the damage

Badajoz

Badajoz

Badajoz

Badajoz

Badajoz

Badajoz

Badajoz

Badajoz

 

Day 68
24 November 2018
Miles 2930
Location Monsaraz, Portugal
GPS 38.44257, -7.37965

Back into Portugal again and a short stop at the quaint medieval hilltop town of Monsaraz. The place has an upmarket feel, shops selling tourist tat with prices to match.  For some reason there are hundreds of Americans here.  There is dedicated motorhome parking just outside the walls, although up a steep cobbled, deeply rutted road. No problem for us but I was surprised that some of the huge German gin palaces had made it up there unscathed.

 

Monsaraz

Monsaraz

Eric didn’t like this!

Monsaraz

Monsaraz

Monsaraz

Day 69
25 November 2018
Miles 3042
Location Pereiro, Portugal
GPS 37.44423, -7.58743

An overnight stop at Pereiro, little more than scrub land with few facilities but wonderful views all around.

Days 70-72
26-28 November 2018
Miles 3056
Location Alcoutim, Portugal
GPS 38.44257, -7.37965

Finally into the Algarve and a popular aire at Alcoutim a short walk from the village. From here we continue south towards the coast, Eric hasn’t had a run on the beach for more than two weeks now since embarking on our inland loop above Lisbon, and I miss having sand in the bed.

Alcoutim, looking back over the river to Sanlucar de Guadiana in Spain

 

Days 57-64 The Lines of Torres Vedras

Days 57-58
13-14 November 2018
Miles 2590
Location Torres Vedras, Portugal
GPS 39.08363, -9.26212

Castelo de Vide

The final day at Foz was absolutely foul with torrential rain all day. Everyone said “spend the winter in Portugal”. Ha! Taking advantage of a brief break from the downpour I took Eric on a quick walk around the village and while out we spotted a little dog, wet and shivering. I went back to the van and returned with one of Eric’s favourite cheesy sausages. You should have seen the face on Eric when I gave it to the little dog! Not a whiff of empathy or canine solidarity, he was furious!

The plan was to loop inland avoiding Lisbon. But now due to the weather I have decided on a wider loop away from the coast. Over to the east of the country, along the Portuguese-Spanish borderlands are some national parks and I’m tempted to follow some of the sights of the Peninsular War.

Next stop is an aire which is little more than car park on edge of a small town. It’s close to Lidl and has free water and disposal. Even better there is a small park with a dog walking enclosure.

The town is Torres Vedras. The pivotal point of three strings of fortifications along high ground surrounding Lisbon, known as “The Lines of Torres Vedras”. Built in 1809/10 by the Portuguese – under instruction from none other than Duke of Wellington who had a brilliant eye for using terrain defensively. The fortifications were intended to keep the froggies out but these days they come here in droves in their “camping cars”.

Fort St Vincent

Portugal had refused to submit to Napoleon’s “Continental System”, an embargo on British trade which dictated how countries were allowed to trade and who with. Bonaparte turned on his Spanish allies, occupied the country, appointed his brother as King of Spain and launched an invasion of Portugal. The subjugation of Spain was particularly brutal, beggared the country for generations and spawned a savage resistance campaign which was the origin of the term “guerrilla”.

By 1812 the Grande Armée was being decimated in the east and Napoleon had faced numerous setbacks in Portugal and Spain and a major defeat at Salamanca. As another tyrant found over a century later, Napoleon could not afford to fight a campaign in the west while his armies were being bled white in Russia.

Pictures here from Fort St Vincent and Fort Olheiros, among the best preserved fortifications around Torres Vedras.

 

 

Fort St Vincent

Fort St Vincent

Fort St Vincent

Fort St Vincent

Fort St Vincent

Fort Olheiros

Fort Olheiros

Day 59
15 November 2018
Miles 2704
Location Vila Nova de Barquinha, Portugal
GPS 39.45582, -8.43358

As soon as we turned inland the weather took a turn for the better and we are now enjoying glorious sunshine, t-shirt and shorts weather again.

Overnight parking at Vila Nova de Barquinha alongside a peaceful, tree-lined road next to the river. There is a large park and free Wi-Fi from the cafe.

 

Days 60-64
16-20 November 2018
Miles 2766
Location Barragem de Nisa nr Castelo de Vide, Portugal
GPS 39.48404, -7.54760

The next aire was a real gem and we ended up staying for five days. Rated at 8.6 on Camper Contact and jam packed even in the middle of November. I was lucky to get a spot, a couple from Sunderland moved their camper so I could squeeze in. The aire is in a lovely location next to a lake. There is the usual water and disposal, as well as a toilet block and showers, all for free.

 

 

Barragem de Nisa

Barragem de Nisa

Barragem de Nisa

The aire is just north of the lovely fortified hilltop town of Castelo de Vide.

 

 

Castelo de Vide

Eric liked this!

Castelo de Vide

Steeper than it looks in the picture, the locals have sturdy legs!

Castelo de Vide

The tower

Castelo de Vide

House built into hillside

Castelo de Vide

The only access to the tower involved clambering across the rooftop next to a sheer drop!  I gave it a miss.

It will take some effort to drag me away from this place but tomorrow we head east and back into Spain.

Days 49-56 Vila do Conde to Murtosa

Day 49
5 November 2018
Miles 2277
Location Vila do Conde, Portugal
GPS 41.36925, -8.76291

Before leaving Ponte de Lima we had a walk around the pleasant and compact medieval town. There is a fascinating structure here, the Sao Paulo Tower built to defend the port against African pirates who used to raid this coast for plunder and slaves. Seeking my own plunder in the form of the data SIM card, I found the MEO mobile phone shop. MEO currently offers the best deal for travellers looking for a mobile data internet service, the “Enjoy” package provides a 30GB allowance over 15 days and costs €15.

 

 

Sao Paulo Tower, Ponte de Lima

Ponte de Lima

Ponte de Lima

A little bit further down the coast – somewhere north of Porto – we stopped at Vila do Conde. There is a large area of what is essentially waste ground near to the port and during the summer is home to hundreds of campers. Now there are just four, all passing through – two Portuguese and two Brits.

Finally I’m getting some lovely sunshine into my solar panels, charging the leisure batteries so that I can run the laptop, lighting, water pump and heater fan.

Still cold in the mornings though, Eric tucked up under his blanket

 

Days 50-51
6-7 November 2018
Miles 2399
Location Murtosa, Portugal
GPS 40.72926, -8.64941

For sale.  One careful owner – just needs a lick of paint

Past the city of Porto today we find ourselves on another little gem at Murtosa, a lovely quiet picnic area at a harbour with parking right on the seafront. There are numerous taps where you can fill up with water, a cafe bar and a little beach.

There were heavy winds the first night here, we were parked only a few feet from the sea and memories of almost being swamped on a Greek beach prompted me to get up in the middle of the night and move a hundred metres or so back from the harbour wall.

Meanwhile, warm, sunny weather and plentiful fresh water means one thing – washing day! I don’t have a washing machine, using automated launderettes at supermarkets when available. But for small quantities a large bucket and a potato masher does just as well.  Two “loads” of hand washing later and I took Eric for a walk on the beach and along the coastal path.  If you look at the picture of the boat above, you might notice it is surrounded by black, slimy mud.  Well, Eric decided to have a paddle! He emerged looking like he’d been in an oil spill and instantly regretted his moment of madness when he heard the word “Bath”.

 

 

Allotment

Scarecrow – Eric didn’t like this!

Woof!

 

The weather looks like it might take a turn for the worse so there is only one solution, keep heading south. Talking to our Dutch neighbours they have the same plan and we joked that at this rate we would meet up somewhere around the equator at Christmas!

Chinese laundry blues

Days 52-56
8-12 November 2018
Miles 2481
Location Figueira da Foz, Portugal
GPS 40.08797, -8.87496

Another fantastic aire, this one at Figueira da Foz.   Almost on the beach, there is capacity for perhaps 40 campers here, individual bays with boundaries marked out by posts. The place has fresh water and a disposal point and even has a small toilet block.

Unfortunately when walking Eric he has to stop and sniff every single wooden post meaning a short walk “around the block” before bed takes about half an hour! He tries to widdle up each post as well but even “Jack the dripper” doesn’t have that much capacity.

A bread van from the local bakery stops in the morning, a toot on the horn announcing arrival and prompting a queue of the aire’s occupants. The girl running this bakery van was able to communicate with each customer switching with ease between Portuguese, French, German and English.

It’s quite windy at the moment and Eric went wild with excitement chasing sea foam as it blew across the beach

This is a fantastic aire so we’re going to stay for a few more days before moving on again.

 

Days 44-48 Into Portugal

Day 44
31 October 2018
Miles 2158
Location Santiago de Compostela, Galicia, Spain
GPS 42.84709, -8.58160

The Galician capital Santiago de Compostela – named after the patron saint of compost (it’s twinned with the German city of Worms!)- boasts a stunning skyline, 11th century cathedral and world heritage rated old town. The sat nav is programmed to the co-ordinates of an aire which is supposed to be convenient for buses into the city but of course I can’t take Eric on a bus and I’m not leaving him alone in the camper.

I drove through the city looking for somewhere to park so that we could have a walk around the sights. The traffic was horrible so we high-tailed it out of there to the aire, which is little more than a car park in a quiet residential area. A shame really as I’d have liked to have spent some time exploring but a reminder why as a rule visiting cities is tricky with a little dog.

 

Day 45
1 November 2018
Miles 2199
Location Pontevedra, Galicia, Spain
GPS 42.43336, -8.63535

Our final Spanish stop, Pontevedra just 32 miles to Portugal. I haven’t spent as much time as intended in Spain, thanks to the recent atrocious weather which has kept us moving every few days in search of sunnier climes. I suspect November is a bit late in the year to be exploring northern Spain.

 

Days 46-47
2-3 November 2018
Miles 2241
Location Vila Nova de Cerveira, Portugal
GPS 41.93803 -8.74655

The least popular restaurant in the town.  They haven’t quite worked out the table orientation and dinners keep hitting the pavement!

So over the border we go, into Portugal, a country new to both of us.

Unbelievably as soon as we crossed the border the sun came out and it was t-shirt weather again. Must be the Gulf Stream!

Looking back over the River Minho to Spain

Just into Portugal, on the River Minho which marks the border we found the historic town of Vila Nova de Cerveira. It was here on February 13, 1809, during the Peninsular War (with which anyone who has seen Sharpe’s Rifles on the telly will be familiar) that the Portuguese prevented an invasion by French troops under the command of Marshal Soult.

Monument to the Heroes of 1809

The town is a little tourist haven with a famous market on Saturdays. People come from all around – the small aire with a capacity of five has spilled out onto the huge car park and there is a carnival atmosphere with what must be 50 or 60 motorhomes here, predominantly Portuguese and Spanish with a smattering of French, German, Dutch and Brit. This is obviously tolerated by the local authority, the influx of visitors bringing custom to the market.

I was a bit disappointed with the market, finding endless stalls selling socks, tea towels and assorted kitchen utensils. I’d hoped there might be a more interesting range of tat, but at least we now know where Cristiano Rolando’s mum comes to buy his undies. It was getting crowded and a stallholder startled Eric by yelling the Portuguese equivalent of “get yer lovely sprouts ‘ere”, after which Eric let me know he wanted out by pulling on the lead. Both of us realised at this point that we don’t like crowds and retreated to the peace and quiet of the van, another mug of coffee and some lovely free municipal internet.

“Disco Oliveira” pumped out abysmal Portuguese pop music all day.  I felt sorry for the neighbouring stall holders!

Day 48
4 November 2018
Miles 2277
Location Ponte de Lima, Portugal
GPS 41.76945, -8.58483

It was too good to be true. Hammering down with rain today, never mind Portugal –  it’s a bit like Colwyn Bay in November. We continued southbound. If we stayed on the coastal route we’d hit the industrial looking, busy port of Viana do Castelo. Instead we tracked inland to the pretty, historic town of Ponte de Lima, one of the oldest towns in Portugal. Conveniently it also has a MEO mobile phone shop where I should be able to buy a Data SIM for the Mi-Fi unit.

There is a large car park along the river, just a short walk to the town centre. Motorhomes are allowed overnight here, and sure enough there were already three or four parked up. It is supposed to be free according to Camper Contact. I’d just made a cuppa when some hi-viz adorned old fella on crutches hobbled up looking like he was going to cost me money. I think he was legit, he asked for €2 for 24 hours and then when he saw I was about to pay up he sprouted another finger and it became 3 euros. As a rule I only stay in free places but it was lashing down, the town looks interesting and I felt sorry for the old duffer hobbling about in the rain.

It’s late afternoon and after a thorough soaking while doing an initial recce around the town, we’re both tucked up in the camper with the heating on, drinking cups of tea (me) and eating crackers and cheese (both of us!)