Days 164-174 The End of the Beginning

Days 164-165
28 February – 01 March 2019
Miles 5812
Location Medinaceli, Spain
GPS 41.17119, -2.43226

Roman Arch, Medinaceli

We bade a sad goodbye to the Mediterranean on the final beach walk at Sagunto before embarking on the long trek inland, along the scenic A-23 motorway, the Autovia Mudéjar on the Camino del Cid – a route crossing Spain from north west to south east in the footsteps of the medieval warlord El Cid.

I have driven this road before and had fond memories of the roadside artwork and sculptures in the style of the Mudéjar, the Moors who remained after the reconquista.

We drove through the historic Aragon region to Castile and León. I love inland Spain away from the concrete monstrosities of the Costas, hilltops crowned with ancient stone hamlets and impressive castles.

Molina de Aragon

Molina de Aragon

After a gentle 189 mile drive the clutch rattle is no worse. It’s only really evident under heavy acceleration so I’ve been taking it easy and we made it without incident to a free aire at the Roman town of Medinaceli.

Medinaceli

Days 166-167
02-03 March 2019
Miles 6079
Location Cabarceno, Spain
GPS 43.35865, -3.81873

After two nights at Medinaceli I pushed on and covered 267 miles today. We’re back at the Elephant Camp just south of Santander. Only a handful of visitors now. Back in October it was quite busy with motorhomes from all over northern Europe heading south for the winter. The rattle is no worse, we should make the ferry – fingers crossed!

Days 168-169
04-05 March 2019
Miles 6099
Location Santander, Spain
GPS 43.47234, -3.80291

There is a pleasant, free aire at Parque Las Lamas next to the university campus and overlooking the river. Free water, disposal and bins provided.

Great location for the ferry being just 3 miles from the port, walking distance to supermarkets and at the other end of the park is the stadium of Real Racing Club de Santander.

Parque Las Lamas

Parque Las Lamas

Parque Las Lamas

Campos de Sport de El Sardinero

 

Day 170
06 March 2019
Miles 6111
Location Santander, Spain
GPS 43.42750, -3.80536

The Parque Las Lamas aire has a maximum allowed stay of 48 hours so after two nights we had to move on. At the marina there is an enclosed parking compound specifically for motorhomes. Not very picturesque but good value at €7 for 24 hours which includes water, disposal and electricity. It was blowing a gale here in an exposed position with the wind coming in from the Bay of Biscay.

Days 171-173
07-09 March 2019
Miles 6119
Location Santander, Spain
GPS 43.47234, -3.80291

MV Connemara

Back to Parque Las Lamas for the final two nights before our ferry. While here I made an appointment with Clinica Veterinaria Duncan, a veterinary surgery within walking distance of the aire. The pet passport procedures dictate that a vet must treat the dog for tapeworm (give them a worming tablet) and record the treatment in their pet passport. This must be carried out no less than 24 hours and no more than 120 hours (5 days) before entering the UK. We’re travelling to Ireland, but the procedures are exactly the same. It makes sense to have the treatment carried out as late as possible in case the ferry is delayed.

Eric being a timid little soul was terrified and shaking with fear. It took two vets to hold him steady while one of them put the worming tablet into his mouth and massaged it down his throat, while Eric struggled so much his claws shredded one of the vets’ forearms, drawing blood. I was mortified, he just shrugged it off as part of the job! Total cost €36.30 with me providing the Drontal tablet. Eric was fine as soon as we were out of the surgery, pulling on the lead to get as far away from the nasty place as possible!

Brittany Ferries documentation states that when taking pets to the onboard pet-friendly cabins, “Muzzles must be worn”. It didn’t specify just dogs, and I was wondering whether I should have bought one for myself as well. Check-in staff did ask to see the muzzle so if using Brittany Ferries services from Spain to the UK or Ireland, make sure you comply and buy a muzzle. As it turned out Eric pulled the thing off his face halfway up the stairs.

The Brittany Ferries route between Santander and Cork on the MV Connemara is advertised as a “No frills” service. As long as you’re not expecting cruise ship luxuries it is fine, there is a small restaurant and bar, small shop but not much else and certainly no entertainment. The crossing wasn’t cheap at £420 including dog-friendly cabin, but the alternative for us was driving 1,000 miles across France and then taking the Chunnel, which all in all would have cost about the same amount.

There is free Wi-Fi but only in the lounge area. I’d stocked up on sandwiches, had a bottle of water and supplies for Eric. There is a small dog walking area on the outside deck, in total about 10 metres of deck space with a hose and poo bag dispenser. Eric needs patch of vegetation to widdle on and it took several trips out onto deck before he could be persuaded to “go” on the metal deck. Next time I’ll bring a clump of weeds with me!

Heavy seas in the Bay of Biscay meant that walking about the ship was difficult and made me feel queasy so we spent most of the time lying on the bed in the cabin watching films on the laptop. Due to the weather the journey took longer than expected, a delay of 4 hours meant that the crossing took over 30 hours in total before we finally docked in a typically miserable, grey, drizzly Cork harbour. Take me back to sunny Spain!

So the trip is over. For now, because after a month or two with family we’re setting off again.  In terms of travel, to quote Churchill on El Alamein, “this is not the end. It is not even the beginning of the end. but it is, perhaps, the end of the beginning”.

Some stats for the trip:

173 days (just under 6 months)
6119 miles or 35 miles/day

Expenditure (€)	Trip Total	Per Month
Diesel	1194.14	209.95
Groceries	708.65	124.59
Tolls & Ferry	458.10	80.54
Maint & Rpair	181.26	31.87
Data/ Tel/ Post	147.00	25.85
LPG €	106.39	18.71
Medical	85.23	14.99
Eric	81.29	14.29
Site Fees	79.60	14.00
Misc	71.03	12.49
Sightseeing	28.60	5.03
Services	23.00	4.04
Clothes	18.95	3.33
Eating out	16.50	2.90
Parking	7.00	1.23
Total (€)	3206.74	563.81

Diesel consumption
930.29 litres = 204.64 imperial gallons = 29.90 mpg

LPG consumption
149.35 litres = 0.71 litres/day

Days 158-163 Driving the Autovia Mediterraneo

Day 158
22 February 2019
Miles 5240
Location Palomares, Spain
GPS 37.23174, -1.79628

Sagunto. Farewell to the Med

Back at the coast now at Palomares in Almeria. In 1966 what was then a tiny fishing village was put on the map, after almost being wiped off it. An American B-52 nuclear bomber collided with a refuelling plane at 30,000 ft, killing all 7 crew in both aircraft. The B-52 was carrying four hydrogen bombs, three of which landed in fields near Palomares, the fourth crashed into the sea and was recovered after months of searching.  The Palomares incident.

There is a huge beachfront car park here now which serves as a wonderful free spot out of season. Occasionally groups of nudists walk by, unfortunately predominantly elderly, male and German rather than young, female and Swedish! They saunter along the beach all brown and leathery like an old pair of sandals. Eric was disappointed as he thought he was having chipolata for dinner!

Sausages!

Days 159-160
23-24 February 2019
Miles 5394
Location Murcia, Spain
GPS 38.02988, -1.14871

I took Eric on a long walk on the beach to tire him out prior to a longish drive, an easy 150 miles mostly on the A7 “Autovia Mediterraneo” or Mediterranean Highway.

Near to the city of Murcia there is an aire on an Ikea car park, in the middle of a huge retail park. Free to stay, with water and disposal. It seems an odd place to stay but is convenient if passing through and the shops obviously do quite well out of the arrangement. As well as the Ikea there is a Toys “R” Us, a Decathlon, an Aldi, a petrol station and several restaurants.

Some traffic noise as expected but it feels quite safe, brightly lit overnight (so bright I was actually still getting a handful of volts into my solar panels overnight) and patrolled by 24 hour site security. Besides I’m quite confident if a scallywag was looking to break into a motorhome they would probably opt for one of the rather more impressive gin palaces around from the £200K Concorde next door to the £150K Carthargo just down the road.

Funnily enough both the Carthargo and the Concorde have Swedish numberplates, their occupants having seemingly gravitated here to the familiarity of Ikea meatballs!

I’ve been looking for an Ikea to buy a new wall mounted kitchen bin, but I’m afraid of going in there in case it takes hours to escape.

 

Day 161
25 February 2019
Miles 5443
Location Monte Faro, Spain
GPS 38.22666, -0.51087

Further down the coast now, I stopped at Santa Pola to fill with cheap diesel at €1.119 and fill my gas bottles at €0.626

A wonderful spot along the beach, there are “no camping” signs but about 50 motorhomes here so appears to be another place where it is not enforced out of season. The police drove by slowly but didn’t tell anyone to move on. I think they tolerate parking overnight but at the point the chairs, barbecues, generators and washing lines come out it is deemed camping rather than parking, they clamp down and tell everyone to move on.

Days 162-163
26-27 February 2019
Miles 5623
Location Sagunto, Spain
GPS 39.71937, -0.19115

Camping Malvarrosa de Corinto

I had planned to stop for a night near Benidorm, on the way enjoying some traditional Benidormian cuisine in the form of a full English. Instead I pushed on and did another long drive. The camper has developed a chattering, rattling noise most prominent under heavy acceleration. I think it might be a bearing in the clutch or gearbox. So instead of zig-zagging across the country doing lots of short hops, I’m taking a more direct route to Santander over just a few long but gentle drives.

We’re now at our final beach spot before heading inland, the town of Sagunto where in 219 BC Hannibal brought his elephants ashore and captured the Roman fortress, beginning the Second Punic War.

There’s a lovely quiet little campsite here, Camping Malvarrosa de Corinto. I’ve been here before and always wanted to return. It’s a bit downmarket and scruffy, but backs right on the beach and there’s a wonderful vibe to the place.

Camping Malvarrosa de Corinto

After two nights here, tomorrow we head inland. It’s sad to be leaving the coast and Eric will miss the regular walks on the beach which he has enjoyed so much, but I need to nurse this motorhome along with its rattly clutch towards Santander.

Days 151-157 Gibraltar to Granada

Day 151
15 February 2019
Miles 4840
Location La Linea de la Concepcion, Spain
GPS 36.15608, -5.35757

The Alhambra, Granada (not my picture, stock Wikipedia image)

From Tarifa it was a short drive to our next stop at Gibraltar. There is allocated motorhome parking at the marina at La Linea de la Concepcion, which costs €12 for 24 hours. Although still in Spain here, it’s a ten minute walk to the border and there are fantastic views of the Gibraltar from the marina, especially of the rock which is lit up at night.

I drove across the border to take advantage of the cheap fuel, filling up with diesel at Morrisons for 91 pence per litre! It feels odd to be spending pounds again. Gibraltar is a fascinating place. The locals look Spanish, drive on the right, just like the Spanish they’re woeful drivers, but they spend pounds, speak English, shop at Morrisons, eat bacon butties and drink tea and are fiercely defensive of their British culture.

Border post

Gibraltar

Gibraltar

Morrisons

Gibraltar

The weather is also very British at the moment; miserable, overcast, looking like the heavens are about to open.

Oddly enough as both Gibraltar and Spain are EU members, for the moment at least, passport control measures are in force both on entry and exit.

Eric didn’t like Gibraltar. On the second day we walked across the border straight into the town, land is obviously at a premium on a small island and it’s so built up with heavy, noisy traffic everywhere. He was pulling on the lead to let me know he wanted out.

Days 152-153
16-17 February 2019
Miles 4871
Location Casares, Spain
GPS 36.44622, -5.27839

We retreated inland to the tranquillity of a free aire on the car park of the tourist information office, just outside the hilltop village of Casares. There are services here consisting of fresh water and a toilet disposal point, all free. Neighbours three British, two German, one Dutch, one French and for the first time, a camper van with Polish plates.

Day 154
18 February 2019
Miles 4918
Location Juzcar, Spain
GPS 36.62254, -5.16880

Ronda

Our next stop was the hilltop town of Ronda, a Moorish old town and Spanish new town divided by a deep gorge known as “El Tajo”, spanned by a single bridge. In the Sierra de las Nieves National Park, Ronda was an inspiration for former residents Ernest Hemingway and Orson Welles.

I’m not keen on heights and looking nervously down from the bridge into the Ronda valley below I expected to see Welsh miners emerging from a pit singing “Men of Harlech”.

The place is heaving with tourists even in February.

Ronda

Ronda

Bull ring, sadly still in use

Bull ring

Ronda

The on to the blue painted “Smurf village” of Juzcar. In 2011 the traditionally whitewashed Andalusian village was painted smurf blue to advertise the upcoming release of the Smurfs film. Every building here was painted blue from hotels, the school, the church and farmacia.

The unique character and charm of Juzcar, the world’s only “Smurf village” saw it become a tourist hotspot with a ten fold increase in visitor numbers, so despite a legal challenge from the owners of the Smurfs brand, the villagers decided to keep the colour scheme. Juzcar is thriving with new businesses, bars and two small hotels opening thanks to the influx of tourism.

Juzcar hotel

Juzcar

Farmacia. Nip into here for something if you’re feeling a little blue

Church

They forgot to paint the cat blue!

Juzcar

Juzcar

We spent the night on a free parking area just outside the village. A sunny, crisp day up in the mountains we enjoyed a wander around the village. A lovely, pleasant little place, it makes you smile.

Days 155-156
19-20 February 2019
Miles 5054
Location Granada, Spain
GPS 37.19729, -3.61230

Alhambra at night. Again, not my image

Due back home in a month I decided it was time to put some miles behind us, driving 136 miles today to the city of Granada.

On the way I was pulled over by the Civil Guard. He wasn’t very civil, had a surly expression on his face and looked like he was having a bad day and was most likely in the mood to hand out fines. I had been warned by a family member (thanks Bill!) that the police here are very strict on dogs being properly restrained while travelling in a vehicle. The Civil Guard told me off, wagged his finger and let me go on my way, Eric now wearing his harness and secured by his lead to the headrest.

I have always wanted to see the world heritage site of the Alhambra palace at Granada but there are no aires anywhere near the city. You can stay overnight at designated motorhome parking on the car park of the Alhambra itself but they charge over €30 per night! So we’re really splashing out and for the first time in five months staying at a campsite. I booked in for two nights at the Camping Hotel Sierra Nevada. More a motel with camping around the back but pleasant enough and a reasonable price at €19 per night. €38 for 2 nights is more than my total spend on accommodation for the entire past five months.

It’s a two mile walk to the Alhambra, I set off with Eric and got about a third of the way but I think it would have been too much for him, it’s still quite hot here during the day.

So instead I drove the two miles, paid for a couple of hours parking and had a wander around the perimeter. Dogs aren’t allowed inside the Alhambra, not even in the gardens, and there’s no way I’m leaving Eric alone in the van for the 3-4 hours it would take to get my money’s worth from the entrance fee. I’m satisfied just to walk around the place and admire it from the outside.

Originally a Moorish fortress (hence the name) the palace complex was extended after the reconquista, it’s an incredible fusion of Islamic and Christian architecture.

Alhambra

Alhambra

Alhambra

Alhambra

Day 157
21 February 2019
Miles 5150
Location Los Banos de Guardias Viejas, Spain
GPS 36.69863, -2.84256

From Granada I enjoyed the stunning scenery as we circled the Sierra Nevada mountains on our return to the coast. After the shock of paying for a campsite, tonight normal service resumed, we’re at a nice free overnight spot next to the beach at Los Banos de Guardias Viejas which translates as “The Baths of the Old Guards”, an ancient garrison town.

Days 143-150 Singeing the King of Spain’s Beard

Day 143
07 February 2019
Miles 4505
Location Gibraleon, Spain
GPS 37.37225, -6.96227

The Hermitage of El Rocio

After three months in Portugal we crossed the bridge over the Guadiana River into the region of Andalucia in southern Spain. There is a free aire at Gibraleon inside a fenced compound on a large car park. Not particularly picturesque but very secure and good for an overnight stop. A brass band was practising in the village hall so quite a noisy evening but they packed up and went home at 9.30.

Eric thinks the best bit about being back in Spain is that the Lidl supermarkets here sell his favourite cheesy sausages.

Days 144-146
08-10 February 2019
Miles 4540
Location Mazagon, Spain
GPS 37.13175, -6.82527

Nina, Santa Maria and Pinta

I went to see the “Muelle de las Carabelas” or the Wharf of the Caravels at the port of Palos, where Columbus set sail for the New World in 1492.

The exhibition features replicas of his three ships, the Santa Maria, the Pinta and the Nina. These replicas were built for the 500th anniversary celebrations and in 1992 sailed the route of Columbus’s voyage.

Columbo sailing the ocean blue, before he became a TV detective

The entrance fee was only €3.60, though of course dogs aren’t allowed. I don’t like leaving Eric alone so it was a quick visit taking lots of photos. It was surprising to see how small the ships are, and how exposed the crew would have been to the elements in the middle of the Atlantic.

Nina

Nina

Santa Maria

Santa Maria

Santa Maria

Santa Maria

Santa Maria

Santa Maria

Pinta

Pinta

Pinta

Pinta

Pinta, Santa Maria, Nina

Three nights then spent at beachside car park at Mazagon.  There is supposed to be a charge here of a few euros per night, but the booth is closed out of season.

Day 147
11 February 2019
Miles 4657
Location nr Utrera, Spain
GPS 37.05005, -5.74630

El Rocio

I thought that the route down the coast would involve a short hop or two before hitting Cadiz. When I programmed the sat nav I was in for a shock. The Donana national park is in the way, there is no coastal road to Cadiz here, the only option is to go the long way around via Seville.

On the way we visited “Andalucia’s Wild West”, the small town of El Rocio. A fascinating place, it looks like a western film set. I can just picture Yul Brynner and Clint Eastwood facing each other across the dusty street, hands poised to reach for their guns. The locals here dress the part, riding their horses to the town supermarket, sorry “General Store”. In the centre of the town is the Hermitage of El Rocio, a religious site dating back to the 13th century. I had a quick look inside while Eric guarded the camper, barking at passing cowboys.

Hermitage of El Rocio

El Rocio

El Rocio

Hermitage of El Rocio

After an hour exploring El Rocio, we set off again towards Seville. I tend to avoid cities but as our route took us right through Seville I thought it worth stopping for a night and seeing what it has to offer. Park 4 Night lists a secure car park in Seville where you can stay overnight. It’s not cheap at €15 for 24 hours but for the peace of mind and security it would be worth it while staying in a city. I navigated the city traffic only to find the gates shut and the car park evidently abandoned. A shame, having jostled with the traffic I was looking forward to seeing the city, as well as getting a hair cut – I heard there is a famous barber in Seville!

Off we set again finally staying at a beautiful spot, a picnic area next to a lake at Utrera.

Days 148-149
12-13 February 2019
Miles 4731
Location Cadiz, Spain
GPS 36.53853, -6.29026

Fortifications at Cadiz

Our camping spot for two nights in Cadiz is the port car park. Motorhomes are allowed here at a charge of €3 per 24 hours. There is secure, gated parking with a high fence, illuminated and locked up at night. It feels very safe which is important, especially if we’re going to leave the camper and go wandering around sightseeing. My dad told me that there is a statue of Sir Francis Drake in Cadiz but I haven’t found it yet. You weren’t having me on were you dad?

We spent a couple of hours exploring Cadiz, I never did find that statue. In 1587 a Spanish fleet was assembled here for an invasion of England. Drake sailed his squadron into the harbour and sent the Spanish fleet to the bottom, later bragging that this action had “singed the King of Spain’s beard”.

In 1805 during the Napoleonic Wars, the combined French and Spanish fleet was assembled here, again as a prelude to an invasion of Britain. They never learn, do they! The Royal Navy under Horatio Nelson blockaded the harbour and then lured the combined fleet out into open water where it was annihilated in one of the greatest naval battles in history, just down the coast at Cape Trafalgar.

Monument to the 1812 Constitution

Cadiz

Cadiz

Cadiz

Cadiz

Cadiz Cathedral

Eric shattered after all the walking, I thought we were in for a quiet evening and then at a nearby bar ANOTHER brass band struck up! The sound of trumpet and drums playing traditional Spanish music was captivating, I was expecting them to launch into a rendition of “Orange Juice”.

Day 150
14 February 2019
Miles 4798
Location Tarifa, Spain
GPS 36.04693, -5.63502

Now at the southernmost point in mainland Spain at Tarifa, the “wind capital of Europe”. It’s very popular with windsurfers, kite surfers and people who enjoy various other windy forms of recreation, I can now understand why. Westerly and easterly wind currents converge here and are funnelled down the narrow Straits of Gibraltar, meaning it’s blowing a gale all year round. We’re off to see Gibraltar tomorrow.

Days 65- 72 Badajoz

Days 65-67
21-23 November 2018
Miles 2860
Location Badajoz, Spain
GPS 38.88490, -6.97842

Badajoz

In 1812 the French army occupying Spain held two great fortresses along the border; the great citadel of Ciudad Rodrigo in the north, and here at Badajoz, the town initially conquered and fortified by the Moors. Ciudad Rodrigo was taken at great cost, artillery making a breach in the walls and infantry launching a frontal attack through the breach. With the town in British hands, nobody had thought to bring along a flag so a red tunic was hoisted up the flagpole.

At Badajoz the British stormed the breach and were beaten back repeatedly, finally taking the fortress. The redcoats having suffered enormous casualties began to take their revenge, sacking the town. A young officer named Harry Smith protected two young Spanish girls, one of whom he would later marry. In later life Harry Smith was governor of Cape Colony and the town of Ladysmith was named after his wife, which rolls off the tongue somewhat easier than “Juana María de los Dolores de León Smith“-town

I’m here at the aire at Badajoz, with Frenchies parked on either side of me. Surrounded, but then reinforcements began to arrive in the form of a retired couple I’d first met at an aire in the Basque country on their way to a month in the Algarve, now on their way home. The couple from Sunderland followed, I think they’re stalking us!

The aire is in a fantastic spot with a wonderful view of the walled town over the Guadiana River and I spent three nights here, walking the legs off poor Eric every day.

I also visited the Media Markt store outside of town to buy a replacement SD card for my Android rear view mirror/dash cam unit. Unfortunately traffic was horrendous and the shops were heaving. I only then realised that the abomination that is “Black Friday” is observed here as well.

While back in Spain I filled up with cheap diesel and took the opportunity to do some mpg calculations, I’m getting just short of 30 mpg which I’m very pleased with. It’s been an expensive week thanks to being back in Spain and stocking up on LPG, diesel and most importantly, Eric’s favourite cheesy sausages.

 

Footbridge across the river

I chucked watching this couple using exercise bikes in the park. Furiously peddling away from each other like they couldn’t wait to be apart!

Badajoz’s answer to Eric and Ernie

Badajoz

Walls breached in 1812, they’re just getting around to repairing the damage

Badajoz

Badajoz

Badajoz

Badajoz

Badajoz

Badajoz

Badajoz

Badajoz

 

Day 68
24 November 2018
Miles 2930
Location Monsaraz, Portugal
GPS 38.44257, -7.37965

Back into Portugal again and a short stop at the quaint medieval hilltop town of Monsaraz. The place has an upmarket feel, shops selling tourist tat with prices to match.  For some reason there are hundreds of Americans here.  There is dedicated motorhome parking just outside the walls, although up a steep cobbled, deeply rutted road. No problem for us but I was surprised that some of the huge German gin palaces had made it up there unscathed.

 

Monsaraz

Monsaraz

Eric didn’t like this!

Monsaraz

Monsaraz

Monsaraz

Day 69
25 November 2018
Miles 3042
Location Pereiro, Portugal
GPS 37.44423, -7.58743

An overnight stop at Pereiro, little more than scrub land with few facilities but wonderful views all around.

Days 70-72
26-28 November 2018
Miles 3056
Location Alcoutim, Portugal
GPS 38.44257, -7.37965

Finally into the Algarve and a popular aire at Alcoutim a short walk from the village. From here we continue south towards the coast, Eric hasn’t had a run on the beach for more than two weeks now since embarking on our inland loop above Lisbon, and I miss having sand in the bed.

Alcoutim, looking back over the river to Sanlucar de Guadiana in Spain

 

Days 44-48 Into Portugal

Day 44
31 October 2018
Miles 2158
Location Santiago de Compostela, Galicia, Spain
GPS 42.84709, -8.58160

The Galician capital Santiago de Compostela – named after the patron saint of compost (it’s twinned with the German city of Worms!)- boasts a stunning skyline, 11th century cathedral and world heritage rated old town. The sat nav is programmed to the co-ordinates of an aire which is supposed to be convenient for buses into the city but of course I can’t take Eric on a bus and I’m not leaving him alone in the camper.

I drove through the city looking for somewhere to park so that we could have a walk around the sights. The traffic was horrible so we high-tailed it out of there to the aire, which is little more than a car park in a quiet residential area. A shame really as I’d have liked to have spent some time exploring but a reminder why as a rule visiting cities is tricky with a little dog.

 

Day 45
1 November 2018
Miles 2199
Location Pontevedra, Galicia, Spain
GPS 42.43336, -8.63535

Our final Spanish stop, Pontevedra just 32 miles to Portugal. I haven’t spent as much time as intended in Spain, thanks to the recent atrocious weather which has kept us moving every few days in search of sunnier climes. I suspect November is a bit late in the year to be exploring northern Spain.

 

Days 46-47
2-3 November 2018
Miles 2241
Location Vila Nova de Cerveira, Portugal
GPS 41.93803 -8.74655

The least popular restaurant in the town.  They haven’t quite worked out the table orientation and dinners keep hitting the pavement!

So over the border we go, into Portugal, a country new to both of us.

Unbelievably as soon as we crossed the border the sun came out and it was t-shirt weather again. Must be the Gulf Stream!

Looking back over the River Minho to Spain

Just into Portugal, on the River Minho which marks the border we found the historic town of Vila Nova de Cerveira. It was here on February 13, 1809, during the Peninsular War (with which anyone who has seen Sharpe’s Rifles on the telly will be familiar) that the Portuguese prevented an invasion by French troops under the command of Marshal Soult.

Monument to the Heroes of 1809

The town is a little tourist haven with a famous market on Saturdays. People come from all around – the small aire with a capacity of five has spilled out onto the huge car park and there is a carnival atmosphere with what must be 50 or 60 motorhomes here, predominantly Portuguese and Spanish with a smattering of French, German, Dutch and Brit. This is obviously tolerated by the local authority, the influx of visitors bringing custom to the market.

I was a bit disappointed with the market, finding endless stalls selling socks, tea towels and assorted kitchen utensils. I’d hoped there might be a more interesting range of tat, but at least we now know where Cristiano Rolando’s mum comes to buy his undies. It was getting crowded and a stallholder startled Eric by yelling the Portuguese equivalent of “get yer lovely sprouts ‘ere”, after which Eric let me know he wanted out by pulling on the lead. Both of us realised at this point that we don’t like crowds and retreated to the peace and quiet of the van, another mug of coffee and some lovely free municipal internet.

“Disco Oliveira” pumped out abysmal Portuguese pop music all day.  I felt sorry for the neighbouring stall holders!

Day 48
4 November 2018
Miles 2277
Location Ponte de Lima, Portugal
GPS 41.76945, -8.58483

It was too good to be true. Hammering down with rain today, never mind Portugal –  it’s a bit like Colwyn Bay in November. We continued southbound. If we stayed on the coastal route we’d hit the industrial looking, busy port of Viana do Castelo. Instead we tracked inland to the pretty, historic town of Ponte de Lima, one of the oldest towns in Portugal. Conveniently it also has a MEO mobile phone shop where I should be able to buy a Data SIM for the Mi-Fi unit.

There is a large car park along the river, just a short walk to the town centre. Motorhomes are allowed overnight here, and sure enough there were already three or four parked up. It is supposed to be free according to Camper Contact. I’d just made a cuppa when some hi-viz adorned old fella on crutches hobbled up looking like he was going to cost me money. I think he was legit, he asked for €2 for 24 hours and then when he saw I was about to pay up he sprouted another finger and it became 3 euros. As a rule I only stay in free places but it was lashing down, the town looks interesting and I felt sorry for the old duffer hobbling about in the rain.

It’s late afternoon and after a thorough soaking while doing an initial recce around the town, we’re both tucked up in the camper with the heating on, drinking cups of tea (me) and eating crackers and cheese (both of us!)

Days 38- 43 The Rain – and Pain – in Spain

Day 38
25 October 2018
Miles 1854
Location Ribadesella, nr Llames de Pria, Asturias, Spain
GPS 43.45872, -4.98258

Before leaving the Elephant Camp I filled the water tank, emptied the toilet and grey water tank. I bumped into the Irish family from “Livin’ off the Hook” again. Their kids recognised Eric.  As we were walking past they shouted excitedly “hey, there’s Eric” and then I noticed the unmistakable gait of their mad three legged spaniel Buckfast.

Over the course of three days relaxing at the safari park the temperature has dropped noticeably, so I decided to get a move on. It’s a bit late in the year for northern Spain and Portugal beckons.

I found a lovely wild camping spot in the tiny village of Ribadesella but it was difficult to get to. Access roads into the village were along really narrow country lanes with stone walls either side. I would have turned around but had already passed the point of no return.  At one stage I had to reverse back up a steep track, making it out without any scrapes but with a lingering smell of burnt clutch.

While on the subject of identifying places to stay overnight, in case you’re interested I use four main databases:

Campercontact – a Dutch database of aires and car parks were overnighting is tolerated. The mobile app is excellent.

Park 4 night – a collection of user-submitted and reviewed parking spots, predominantly focused on wild camping, picnic spots and car parks.

Wild Camping POIs – extensive and well researched collection of UK and continental wild camping spots.

Campingcar-infos. A French site, with an infuriatingly poorly designed, clunky interface but if you persevere, it’s a great resource.

 

Day 39
26 October 2018
Miles 1938
Location Muros de Nalon, Asturias, Spain
GPS 43.55449, -6.11793

Guess what I found in Lidl – hot dog type sausages with cheese in, Eric’s two favourite foodstuffs in one. Stocked up on several packs, he’ll love them.

We headed further west today past Gijon and found some roadside parking in a fantastic spot along the beach front in a quiet resort, deserted out of season. It was a windy night and the rain lashed down without interruption.

Day 40
27 October 2018
Miles 2010
Location Foz, Galicia, Spain
GPS 43.56339, -7.25788

 

Co-pilot at his station

In Galicia now, the storm has hit with a vengeance today. The roads are treacherous with heavy winds and hail, I saw the aftermath of a nasty crash leaving a delivery van overturned against the barrier.

Overnight was spent at a lovely aire along the seafront at Foz. This aire had been recommended to me and sure enough it’s in a stunning spot but looking out at heavy rain over a grey and windy Bay of Biscuits I should have guessed what was in store.

We didn’t get much sleep. In our exposed position the storm buffeted the van, the rain battered down on the roof. Lightning shot across the bay and Eric barked at the thunder.

Meanwhile, not helping my lack of sleep is a constant ache from a tooth that has been giving me increasing trouble for the past couple of years. It’s now reached crisis point, the thing is loose and painful, my whole head throbs and body feels like I have a colossal hangover. It has to go, but it’s only Saturday. As with the storm I’ll have to ride it out.

Days 41-43
28-30 October 2018
Miles 2065
Location Ourol, Galicia, Spain
GPS 43.56486, -7.64389

I drove inland seeking shelter from the storm. I had identified (this time thanks to Campercontact) an aire at the small village of Ourol, the aire is not only free but also has free services including fresh water and electricity. That will do nicely, with two Swedes as neighbours we spent a quiet night, though interspersed with heavy rain and pain from this infernal tooth.

Unfortunately although the aire has free electricity, I have no electric heating so I’m running the camper’s Truma blown-air gas heating system at night to keep warm. Which is very toasty and efficient but in the process burns my own gas which I have to pay for!

First thing Monday morning I drove 10 miles to the nearest thing resembling a town, the port of Viveiro, in search of a dentist.

Walking up to reception at Odontología del Norte with a pre-prepared google translation on my phone explaining the problem, I needn’t have bothered. The dentists all speak excellent English. X-rays taken and the troublesome molar was wrenched from my jaw with some force, he said “the roots were deep”. Seriously though, the dentists were great and the whole procedure only cost €70.

Before leaving Viveiro I bought some soup and a cheap fan heater.

A short drive back to the aire and despite having a gob full of gauze and being unable to feel half of my face thanks to the anaesthetic, I feel miles better already. There are antibiotics for the infection and painkillers for the inevitable discomfort when the anaesthetic wears off.

It was only then that I realised that the heater of course has a 2-pin Euro F-type plug on it. Thankfully I found a UK plug in my box of electrical bits, so hacked off the 2 pin plug, wired up the UK plug and we now have free heating for the evening.

To top it all the sun is out again and I think we might have seen the last of the storm. Happy days! I’m going to rest up tonight, walk Eric, drink soup and move on again tomorrow.

Days 33-37 Gernika to the Elephant Camp

Day 33
20 October 2018
Miles 1673
Location Lekeitio, Basque Country, Spain
GPS 43.35846, -2.50774

I don’t know what it is, but it wants yapping at

A dull morning so I moved on again in an effort to get more amps into my batteries. It was a spectacular drive as the road wound and twisted its way around the rugged coastline.

Ondarroa, Basque Country

There is a large free aire at Lekeitio, very popular and still full even at this time of year. Largely Spanish visitors for the weekend, perhaps it’s quieter during the week. I met a couple of New Zealanders on year-long tour in a GB reg Autocruise camper and a British fella who has been travelling the continent for 20 years. Most people are headed to the warmer climes of southern Spain and Portugal.

I also got chatting to an Irish family who are travelling with their two kids – schooling them on the road – and lovely three legged springer spaniel who put his leg down a rabbit hole in France, breaking it so badly he had to have it amputated. He’s still full of beans!

Livin’ off the Hook

The Policia drive through every so often to make sure that everyone is behaving themselves.  There are strict rules on where you can park and of course no chairs, awnings, barbecues etc, it’s an aire not a campsite.

We had a walk around town and Eric enjoyed the beach. Did I mention he loves the beach?

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Day 34
21 October 2018
Miles 1745
Location Castro Urdiales, Basque Country, Spain
GPS 43.41363, -3.33425

Next stop was Guernica – the Basque spelling is Gernika which explains why my sat nav couldn’t find the place!

Gernika was obliterated on 26 April 1937 by German and Italian bombers at the request of Franco, during the Spanish Civil War. He wanted to destroy the symbolic heartland of Basque nationalism. The Condor Legion devastated the city, setting the standard for what would come later, the Luftwaffe sowing the wind in Warsaw, Rotterdam and Coventry, and reaping the whirlwind in Hamburg, Koln and Dresden.

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Public School Building

New Gernika Tree

Old Gernika Tree – https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gernikako_Arbola

Biscayan Assembly

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Mural depicting Picasso’s “Guernica”

0543 Jose María Iparraguirre

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On the road again I filled up with some super-cheap diesel at an Easygas station, paying €1.169 (£1.03) a litre, busting this week’s budget but I’ll start next week with a full tank. Driving past Bilbao we then stopped at a sensational little wild camping spot surrounded by cliffs with paths down to, yes, another beach.

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Days 35-37
22-24 October 2018
Miles 1781
Location Cabarceno, Cantabria, Spain
GPS 43.35865, -3.81873

Spot the difference

We left the Basque country for the next region along the coast, Cantabria.

No less than three people had recommended this particular aire to me as a great place to stop, it’s a free aire known as the “Elephant Camp”. A wooded, lakeside setting on the grounds of a safari park. It’s a fantastic spot, a lot of Brits use this as a stop off for the Santander ferry as it’s only 20 miles south of the port.

By all accounts it’s €30 to visit the safari park. Perhaps they’re hedging their bets that some people staying at the aire will want to see the animals but not at that price. There is a lovely walk around the boundaries where you can see elephants and gazelle. Eric has “barking at an elephant” ticked off on his canine bucket list.

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Every evening the egrets gather in trees around the lake and the aire’s occupants – currently Spanish, Dutch, British, Irish, German, French and Swiss – gather to watch.

Days 29-32 Into Spain and the Basque Country

Day 29
16 October 2018
Miles 1548
Location Col D’Ibardin, nr Urrugne, Nouvelle-Aquitaine, France
GPS 43.30999, -1.68587

Day 29 finds us at a small village in the foothills of the pair o’knees. It’s one of those odd places that only exists because of the border. Col D’Ibardin is on a dead end road in the hills and appears to be accessible only from France, yet is within Spanish territory. As a result the French flock here to stock up on cheap fuel, booze, cigarettes, perfume,the usual cross-border commodities. The place is heaving during the day, they even have bus tours full of shoppers arriving by the hour, the equivalent of the cross-channel booze cruise. But once the outlets close for the day the village is quiet.

There is a fantastic aire here with picturesque views, about 15 campers almost exclusively retired French heading south for the winter.

Over the past few days, driving into the Basque region of France, everything has begun to look and feel – and sound – gradually more Spanish. Even the local dialect sounds like Spanish yet they’re talking French with what is presumably a Basque accent.

Day 30
17 October 2018
Miles 1603
Location Listorreta, nr Errenteria, Basque Country, Spain
GPS 43.26803, -1.90161

After a leisurely month spent meandering south and west, we’ve finally made it to Spain, or have we? Officially we’re in the “Basque Autonomous Community” with its own parliament and devolved powers within the Spanish constitution.

This is a new country for Eric. He’s an incredibly well travelled little dog having visited 31 countries in his five years. Here – wherever it is – is now number 32. He takes it all in his stride.

Today has been a frustrating day. I had a list of things I intended to do after crossing the border: Stock up in Lidl, buy some LPG, buy some diesel and buy a data SIM card to use in the Mi-Fi device. We’ve driven 55 miles faffing around from one place to another without really getting anywhere. I did manage to buy some diesel though, nice cheap Spanish diesel at not much more than a quid a litre, significantly cheaper than I’ve been paying in France, happy days!

I’ve driven in Spain before but had forgotten about their appalling driving. They’re incapable of thinking even a few seconds ahead. Also they are rather fond of using the horn, which I’ve always understood to be for emergency use but the Spanish play their horns excitedly like a toddler on a new set of toy drums.

Day 31
18 October 2018
Miles 1625
Location Urdaiaga, nr Usurbil, Basque Country, Spain
GPS 43.26750, -2.06081

After yesterday’s frustrations everything went almost to plan today. I headed into the town of Hernani which my sat nav thought was a separate town but in reality seems to be a suburb of San Sebastian. Parked up, found the tourist information office and was amused to discover that neither of the two girls at the desk spoke either English OR French. Nevertheless they directed me to a local mobile phone shop where I managed to buy a Lycamobile data SIM card. I wanted an Ilimitado XXL card which would have given me 22 Gb over 30 days for just 15 Euro, but ended up, lost in translation, with the slightly less generous but still good value Ilimitado XL. Still it should ensure I have internet access even out in the sticks.

Next up, a Repsol petrol station with LPG at 72c per litre. My two onboard gas bottles are refillable at LPG pumps, the gauge on the first bottle was now indicating empty but again it’s cheaper in Spain so I’ve been putting it off. 8 Euros later both gas bottles are full again, I’m pretty happy with that as it means it has cost about £6 for a month running the fridge, doing all my cooking, heating water for showers and washing up and occasional use of the heater on cold mornings.

Then onto a Lidl. I’ve been running down my provisions and putting off doing a big shop because I knew Spain would be a lot cheaper than France, so went absolutely wild in the Lidl and did a “big shop”, a hole in the wallet amounting to 28.61 Euros…

Tonight we’re at another great little spot outside a church in a tiny village up in the hills. What would be a lovely quiet little spot but for the church bells which make me jump every hour, they’re unbelievably loud for a little backwater like this.

Day 32
19 October 2018
Miles 1637
Location Orio, Basque Country, Spain
GPS 43.28499, -2.13221

We moved on just 12 miles today to the small port of Orio, there is a beach area with a car park where overnight stays are allowed. It’s not the most picturesque place with the industrial port facilities opposite but Eric has enjoyed walks on the beach every couple of hours. There’s also open Wi-fi here from a nearby restaurant so I’m freeloading, updating this blog and downloading some telly dramas to watch later.

One final thing, I’ve been working on the route map, here it is so far. I’ll try to keep it updated with the co-ordinates of each overnight stop.